House Rabbit Society House Rabbit FAQ Compiled by Paige K. Parsons (paige@acm.org) Last Modified: 1/28/97 version 2.4 Table of Contents ----------------- 1.0 Introduction 1.1 Terminology 1.2 Abbreviations 1.3 Revision History 2.0 House Rabbit Society Information 2.1 What is the House Rabbit Society? 2.2 What is the House Rabbit Society Philosophy? 2.3 How do I join the House Rabbit Society? 2.4 Does the House Rabbit Society have a web site? 2.5 Does the House Rabbit Society have an electronic mailing list? 3.0 Sources of Comprehensive House Rabbit Information 3.1 House Rabbit Handbook 3.2 House Rabbit Journal 3.3 The Rabbit Health News 4.0 Spaying and Neutering 4.1 Why Should rabbits be spayed or neutered? 4.2 Is surgery safe on rabbits? 4.3 At what age should rabbits be spayed or neutered? 4.4 When is a rabbit too old to be spayed or neutered? 4.5 Can you tell if female rabbit has already been spayed? 4.6 What does the surgery cost? 4.7 How can I find a veterinarian that can do the surgery safely? 4.8 What kinds of questions should I ask the vet? 4.9 What pre- and post-operative care should one give? 4.10 Further Reading 5.0 How To Find a Good Rabbit Vet 5.1 Introduction 5.2 How do I Start the Search? 5.3 What screening questions should I ask? 5.4 What shouldn't I do? 6.0 Chewing Behavior 6.1 Introduction 6.2 What are the psychological factors of chewing? 6.3 What are the environmental factors of chewing? 6.4 Should I give the rabbit items to chew? 6.5 Does chewing carpet hurt the rabbit? 6.6 Should I give the rabbit items to dig? 6.7 Can I discipline my rabbit not to chew? 7.0 Training a companion rabbit 7.1 Definitions 7.2 Basics of rabbit behavior 7.3 Age and behavior 7.4 Preparation 7.5 Chewing and digging 7.6 Communicating without words 7.7 Behavior motivated by social structure 7.8 Summary 7.9 Further Reading 8.0 Litter Training 8.1 Introduction 8.2 Does age make a difference? 8.3 Does Spaying/Neutering make a difference?. 8.4 What types of litter should I use? 8.5 Won't rabbits get confused if you use food pellets for litter? 8.6 Cleaning and Disposal. 8.7 What kinds of cages work best? 8.8 What if my cage is on legs or has a door that opens on top so the bunny can't get into it on his own? 8.9 What if my cage is too small for a litter box or I don't use a cage? 8.10 Pills vs. Urine. 8.11 Can the rabbit have a running space? 8.12 So what's the actual method? 8.13 How many litterboxes? 8.14 Kicking litter out of the box 8.15 Urinating over the edge of the litterbox 8.16 What to do if your rabbit insists on using another spot 8.17 What are the most common litter training mistakes? 8.18 What should I do if my rabbit starts dribbling all over her cage instead of using the litter box? 8.19 Why does my rabbit urinate or leave pills right beside the litterbox? 8.20 Further Reading 9.0 Rabbit-Proofing Your House 9.1 What does rabbit proofing involve? 9.2 Why is rabbit proofing your home so important?? 9.3 So how do I keep electrical cords out of reach? 9.4 How do I keep my rabbit from eating house plants? 9.5 How do I protect baseboards and wooden furniture? 9.6 How do I protect upholstered furniture and beds? 10.0 Housing 10.1 Is it OK to keep my rabbit in a cage with a wire floor? 10.2 What size cage is best? 10.3 Can my new bunny run loose 24 hours a day? 10.4 What can I do to make the rabbit's cage time more enjoyable? 10.5 When is it OK to let a rabbit run loose in the house? 10.6 Can I let my rabbit run loose outside? 11.0 Rabbits Outdoors 11.1 Overview 11.2 What is the greatest outdoor risk for rabbits? 11.3 I live in the city. Do I still need to worry about predators? 11.4 My rabbit has lived outside for a long time without harm from predators - why should I consider bringing her inside now? 11.5 What kinds of safe daytime exercise can I provide outdoors? 12.0 Toys 12.1 Why is it important to provide toys? 12.2 What are good bunny toys? 13.0 Aggressive Rabbits 13.1 Introduction 13.2 The Basics of Rabbit Aggression: Ballistic Bunnies 101 13.3 Common Aggression Scenarios 13.4 "Every time I walk in the room, Netty circles my feet and bites my ankles. Does she want something from me?" 13.5 "When I put my hand down for my new rabbit, Jaws, to sniff she lunges at it. Doesn't she like the way I smell?" 13.6 "Attilla is adorable. But when we reach into his cage to pull him out he bites our hands. What's wrong?" 13.7 "Sometimes when I try to stop Baby from eating the carpet she nips my hands. Am I hurting her?" 13.8 "Piggy has started biting my hands when I put the food down. What's her problem?" 13.9 Extremely Aggressive Rabbits: Bunnies Who Run With the Wolves 14.0 Introducing Rabbits 14.1 What are the possible types of introductions? 14.2 What are the possible scenarios after first introduction? 14.3 How To's: Work with Space 15.0 Diet 15.1 What are the basics of a good house rabbit diet? 15.2 What makes a good pellet? 15.3 What kinds of veggies should I feed my rabbit? 15.4 Is feeding hay important? 15.5 What quantities of food should I feed Babies and "teenagers"? 15.6 What quantities of food should I feed young adults? (7 months to 1 year) 15.7 What quantities of food should I feed mature adults? (1 to 5 years) 15.8 What quantities of food should I feed senior rabbits? (Over 6 years) 15.9 If I feed fewer pellets, how do I compensate? 16.0 Medical Concerns for Companion Rabbits 16.1 Red Urine. 16.2 Amoxicillin Danger. 16.3 Cedar and Pine Shavings. 16.4 Spay/Neuter. 16.5 Teeth. 16.6 Hairballs. 16.7 Surgeries. 16.8 Bacterial Infections. 16.9 Digestive Problems. 18.0 Travel and Vacation 19.0 Rabbits and Children ************************************************************************ 1.0 Introduction This FAQ presents answers to the House Rabbit Society's most frequently asked questions about house rabbits. The FAQ covers a broad range of topics, and is intended to complement other more detailed publications. The two most comprehensive resources for House Rabbit information are the House Rabbit Handbook by Marinell Harriman, and the House Rabbit Journal, published quarterly by the House Rabbit Society. Information on obtaining these publications is provided in section 3 of this FAQ. In addition, there are many sources for further reading on each of the topics in this FAQ. These are referenced at the end of each section of the FAQ. 1.1 Terminology To be written. 1.2 Abbreviations The following abbreviations are used throughout this FAQ House Rabbit Society - House Rabbit Society HRJ - House Rabbit Journal HRH - House Rabbit Handbook RHN - Rabbit Health News 1.3 Revision History 1.0 21-Apr-96 initial version released 2.0 20-Nov-96 added sections on children and travel 2.1 01-Dec-96 added bibliography references on uterine cancer, pine and cedar shavings, and amoxicillin. Added note on dangers of ingesting toys. 2.2 01-Jan-97 added beside box litter training question updated mailinglist addresses 2.3 14-Jan-97 added correct carefresh 800 number. 2.4 27-Jan-97 updated my email address 2.0 House Rabbit Society Information 2.1 What is the House Rabbit Society? The House Rabbit Society is an all-volunteer, non-profit organization with two primary goals: - To rescue abandoned rabbits and find permanent homes for them and - To educate the public and assist humane societies, through publications on rabbit care, phone consultation, and classes upon request. 2.2 What is the House Rabbit Society Philosophy? The House Rabbit Society believes that ALL rabbits are valuable as individuals, regardless of breed purity, temperament, state of health, or relationship to humans. The welfare of all rabbits is our primary consideration. It is in the best interest of domestic rabbits to be neutered/spayed, to live in human housing where supervision and protection are provided, and to be treated for illnesses by veterinarians. Domestic rabbits are companion animals and should be afforded at least the same individual rights, level of care, and opportunity for longevity as commonly afforded to dogs and cats who live as human companions. The complete text of the House Rabbit Society Philosophy is available at: http://www.rabbit.org/hrs-info/philosophy.html 2.3 How do I join the House Rabbit Society? To join the House Rabbit Society, send $12 (non-USA residents send $15) to: House Rabbit Society 1524 Benton Street Alameda, CA 94501 As an educational service, members of the House Rabbit Society will receive the House Rabbit Journal when it is published, typically 3 or 4 times a year. 2.4 Does the House Rabbit Society have a web site? The House Rabbit Society Web site is located at: http://www.rabbit.org The web site contains back issue of the HRJ, and has on line adoption listings for House Rabbit Society chapters in many major cities in the United States. 2.5 Does the House Rabbit Society have an electronic mailing list? The House Rabbit Society doesn't have an official mailing list, but manyeducators and members of the House Rabbit Society often post to a mailing list called Etherbun. To subscribe to Etherbun: send a message to: Listserve@dragonfly.cox.miami.edu with the following text in the body of the message: SUBSCRIBE ETHERBUN 3.0 Sources of Comprehensive House Rabbit Information 3.1 The "House Rabbit Handbook" This is the most complete and up-to-date resource for house rabbit information. It is stocked by many major bookstores in the United States. If you have problems finding it at a local bookstore, it can be ordered from the publisher ($9.95 + $3.05 shipping and handling in the US, $6.05 international) to: Drollery Press 1524 Benton Street Alameda, CA 94501. 3.2 The "House Rabbit Journal" This is sent to all members of the House Rabbit Society as part of its educational effort. It keeps members abreast of new developments in understanding and caring for our rabbit companions. To join the House Rabbit Society, send $12 (non-USA residents send $15) to House Rabbit Society 1524 Benton Street Alameda, CA 94501 House Rabbit Society members receive the Journal whenever it is published, usually three or four times a year. Please remember that this is not a subscription, but a benefit of being a member of the House Rabbit Society 3.3 The Rabbit Health News 4.0 Spaying and Neutering Primary Author(s): Nancy LaRoche Sources: HRH, various articles from the HRJ Last Modified: 3/3/96 4.1 Why Should rabbits be spayed or neutered? We recommend spaying female rabbits for the following reasons: - by the age of 6 years, there is more than a 50% probability of uterine cancer. A bibliography of references is available from http://www.rabit.org/care/bibliography.html#uterine-cancer - spayed females won't contribute to the problem of overpopulation of rabbits - spayed females tend to be happier, less aggressive, more friendly; some females are utterly miserable from hormonal problems (bunny PMS) until they are spayed - spayed rabbits are easier to litter train We recommend neutering male rabbits for the following reasons: - neutered males won't contribute to the problem of overpopulation of rabbits - neutered males don't spray (except in the presence of another male), are less aggressive, and are relieved of the intense need to mate which limits their ability to enjoy other things in life - neutered males lose their hormonal urge to mark territory with urine and poop and are therefore easier to litter train. 4.2 Is surgery safe on rabbits? Surgery can be as safe on rabbits as on any animal. Unfortunately, the vast majority of veterinarians aren't experienced with safe rabbit surgery techniques. Don't allow a veterinarian with little or no experience with rabbits spay or neuter your rabbit. Using isofluorene as the anesthetic and appropriate surgical and after-surgery techniques, spaying and neutering of rabbits is as safe as for any other animal. 4.3 At what age should rabbits be spayed or neutered? Females can be spayed as soon as they sexually mature, usually around 4 months of age, but many veterinarians prefer to wait until they are 6 months old, as surgery is riskier on a younger rabbit. Males can be neutered as soon as the testicles descend, usually around 3-1/2 months of age, but many veterinarians prefer to wait until they are 5 months old. 4.4 When is a rabbit too old to be spayed or neutered? veterinarians will have their own opinions on this, but in general, after a rabbit is 6 years old, anesthetics and surgery become more risky. It is always a good idea, in a rabbit over 2 years of age, to have a very thorough health check done, including full blood work. This may be more expensive than the surgery, but it will help detect any condition that could make the surgery more risky. This is especially important if anesthetics other than isofluorene are used. 4.5 Can you tell if female rabbit has already been spayed? The probability is very high that she hasn't. One can shave the tummy and look for a spay scar. However, when veterinarians use certain stitching techniques, there is no scar whatsoever. Hopefully, these veterinarians will tattoo the tummy to indicate the spay has been done, but otherwise, the only way of knowing is to proceed with the surgery. 4.6 What does the surgery cost? Most veterinarians charge somewhere between $55 and $120. Most spay and neuter clinics charge between $25 and $50 dollars. 4.7 How can I find a veterinarian that can do the surgery safely? See section 5.0 of this FAQ, How To Find a Good Rabbit Vet. 4.8 What kinds of questions should I ask the vet? - about how many rabbit clients does the veterinarian see in a year? - how many spays/neuters OF RABBITS has the veterinarian has done in the past year? - what was the success rate? 90% success is way too low. Every doctor, whether for animals or humans will occasionally lose a patient; usually because of an undiagnosed problem. veterinarians across the country who spay and neuter rabbits for the House Rabbit Society have lost on average less than 1/2 of 1%. - if any were lost, what was the cause? - does the veterinarian remove both uterus and ovaries? (they should) - does the veterinarian do "open" or "closed" neuters? (closed is preferable--let your veterinarian explain the difference) - is entry to the testicles made through the scrotum or the abdomen? (Entry via the abdomen unnecessarily increases the trauma for male rabbits) - does the veterinarian require withholding of food and water prior to surgery in rabbits? (It is better not to do this--rabbits can't vomit, so there is no risk of that during surgery, and rabbits should never be allowed to get empty digestive tracts) - what anesthetics are used (some veterinarians are quite successful with anesthetics other than isofluorene, but the bunny is "hung over" after surgery, which increases the probability that s/he will be slow to start eating again, which can lead to serious problems if not dealt with - Review the procedure (op and immediate post-op) with your vet. Ask how problems will be detected: how often will they (the veterinarian and the techs) look in on your kid and what will they look for?. What will they do pre-op to find any potential problems? How will they support your bun in the hours after surgery: O2, warmth, quiet (barking dogs and yowling cats in the next cage are probably not helpful), and stimulation? What are they going to do to make it come out right?! Ask questions! That will get your vet's attention. Let them know you're concerned and that you'll be paying attention. 4.9 What pre- and post-operative care should one give? Give the rabbit acidophilus for a couple of days prior to surgery, just to be certain that the digestive system is functioning in fine form. Don't change the diet it any way during this time. After the surgery, continue giving acidophilus until the appetite has returned to normal. Inspect the incision morning and evening. After a neuter, the scrotum may swell with fluids. Warm compresses will help, but it is nothing to be overly concerned about. With any sign of infection, take the rabbit to the veterinarian immediately. Keep a newly spayed female away from all male rabbits (neutered or not), as serious internal damage can be caused if a male mounts her. After surgery, keep the environment quiet so the rabbit doesn't startle or panic, don't do anything to encourage acrobatics, but let the rabbit move around at her own pace-- she knows what hurts and what doesn't Some veterinarians keep rabbits overnight. If your veterinarian lets you bring your bunny home the first night, note the following: - Most males come home after being neutered looking for "supper"-- be sure they have pellets, water, and some good hay (good, fresh alfalfa is a good way to tempt them to nibble a bit) - Most females want to be left alone, are not interested in eating at all, and will sit quietly in a back corner of the cage (or wherever in the house they feel they will be bothered the least) The following morning, or at latest by the next evening, it is important for the rabbit to be nibbling something. It doesn't matter what or how much, as long as she is taking in something, so the digestive tract won't shut down. If she isn't, tempt her with everything possible, and as a last resort, make a mush of rabbit pellets (1 part pellets, 2 parts water, run through blender thoroughly, add acidophilus, and feed in pea-sized bits with a feeding syringe through the side of the mouth) Occasionally a female will pull out her stitches. Get her stitched up again, and then belly-band her by wrapping a dish towel around her whole middle and binding that with an elastic bandage wrapped snuggly over it. If she can breath normally, it isn't too tight. 4.10 Further Reading 5.0 How To Find a Good Rabbit Vet Primary Author(s): Sandi Ackerman Kathleen Wilsbach Sources: HRH, various articles from the HRJ, RHN Last Modified: 3/3/96 5.1 Introduction The following may seem like a lot of work to go through to find a veterinarian, but your rabbits' well being depends upon finding the most experienced veterinary care available. We hope that within another few years, veterinarian schools will begin to understand rabbits well enough so that veterinarians can be properly trained before they run across a rabbit in their practice. The other problem is that veterinarians not trained in rabbit medicine should be responsible enough to refer you to another veterinarian. Instead many just see the green of your money and say to themselves, "sure I'm a vet, I can see your pet, after all it's only a rabbit". When you find a veterinarian who is honest enough to refer you to someone else, be sure to refer people to him/her and if you have cats or dogs, give him that business. It's really great to work with an honest vet! 5.2 How do I Start the Search? - Start the search before you have an emergency! - Check the yellow pages for veterinarians who advertise as "exotic" (includes, rabbits & rodents). Then randomly select 5 veterinarians who do NOT advertise as avian or exotic. (Editor's Note: A comprehensive listing of veterinarians in the USA is now available on line at: This is another alternative to the yellow pages) - Phone these veterinarians and ask who they refer their clients to if they have a serious rabbit case. If all 5 veterinarians give you the name of the same veterinarian, ok. If not, then randomly select another 5 veterinarians and continue the process until you have a clear "winner". - Phone several (start with 3) veterinarians in cities within 50 miles of you and ask the same question: who do they refer their clients to if they have a serious rabbit case. (I pass by at least 15 clinics to get to my veterinarian who is 35 miles away.) After you have either a clear "winner" or several veterinarians to choose from: - Phone the vet. Let the front office person know that you are concerned with finding the very best veterinarian to care for your rabbit and that you would like to speak directly to the doctor at his/her convenience. Leave both your work and home phone number and specific times that the veterinarian can get hold of you (and be there) or ask what would be a good time for you to call back (when the veterinarian is between appointments). 5.3 What screening questions should I ask? - See Section 4.7 for questions specific to spaying and neutering - Ask if they know which antibiotics are dangerous for rabbits (amoxicillin and most of the "...cillin" drugs like penicillin. Also see below). - Casually ask about preventing hairballs. Q: "What's the best way to prevent hairballs?" A: "Provide your rabbit with hay every day, preferably 24 hours a day. Provide daily exercise and brush frequently" - Ask if food has to be removed the night before surgery. The answer should be "no". Rabbits should never be fasted. - you might also want to ask which conferences they've attended lately that had talks about rabbit medicine and what journals they read. We want our veterinarians to be up on the latest in rabbit treatment. If you don't get the "right" answers to the above questions, continue your search. 5.4 What shouldn't I do? - Do not make your choice based on how close the veterinarian is to your home (unless that veterinarian is the clear "winner"). Paying money to a veterinarian who does not know anything (or very little) about rabbits is just throwing your money away and can cost the life of your companion. - Don't assume that just because a veterinarian works with breeders or local 4-H clubs, that they are experienced with house rabbits or the medical needs of older rabbits. Unfortunately, such veterinarians often tend to approach rabbits as stock animals rather than as beloved companions. They may never have done a spay or neuter and "treatment" of any difficulty may amount to euthanasia (when dealing with stock or show animals, the financial bottom line may be the primary consideration). - Antibiotics that should never be given to rabbits. Even one dose of the following can be deadly: Amoxicillin, lincomycin, clindamycin. 5.5 Further Reading 6.0 Chewing and Digging Behavior Primary Author(s): Holly O'Meara Sources: HRH, various articles from the HRJ, RHN Last Modified: 3/3/96 6.1 Introduction Why does your rabbit chew things other than her meals? Chewing is a normal, natural, necessary Ñ and highly enjoyable Ñ activity for rabbits. Here is an outline of some considerations to help you understand the why of chewing, as well as the how of preventing destruction of your favorite wicker furniture. 6.2 What are the psychological factors of chewing? Sex. Females often have a stronger urge to burrow than males, although this is not the only reason rabbits chew. The hormone/age factors below also apply to males. Both males and females can and should be spayed or neutered as soon as they are sexually mature (3 1/2 to 6 mos. old). Hormone/age. Is she spayed? - If young (under 2 yr..) & unspayed, spay her. - If young & spayed, her chewing will lessen with time. - If mature (over 2 yrs.) & unspayed, spay her but get a checkup first. - If mature & spayed, her behavior isn't governed by hormones. Remember: A spayed rabbit will chew less and less as she matures. It may be just a matter of riding out a high energy stage of your bunny's life. Personality. Chewers are often intelligent, outgoing, affectionate individuals who like to be in charge and get lots of attention. Does she chew to get attention? Would a companion alleviate boredom? Anything that would entertain her/make her happier might lessen her chewing. 6.3 What are the environmental factors of chewing? Diversions: keep trying to find something harmless she enjoys doing. What kind of "burrow" (such as a cardboard box stuffed with hay), can you provide for her? Protecting the environment: A box or wire basket can go over a group of wires. Browse a large hardware store for products to use for bunnyproofing. Confinement (to a cage or room). This simply buys you time, while you bunny-proof, get her spayed, or wait for her to mature. 6.4 Should I give the rabbit items to chew? Yes. You can give rabbits pieces of the thing they want to chew: their own bit of carpet, for example, providing they aren't ingesting it. This is especially useful when the attraction is the particular consistency (nothing pulls quite like the threads from a piece of carpet). Here are some items that are OK for rabbits to chew on:: - apple, willow, aspen branches; - pine firewood; - untreated fresh pine lumber attached to cage so it doesn't move--piece of molding, 1"x2"s, or 2"x4"s; - basket with hay in it--let the bun chew the basket as well as the hay; - compressed alfalfa cubes 6.5 Does chewing carpet hurt the rabbit? Since swallowing indigestible such as carpet presents a health hazard to your bunny, follow up excessive chewing incidents with a petroleum laxative such as Petromalt or Laxatone (sold at pet- supply stores). 6.6 Should I give the rabbit items to dig? Yes. For digging, build a "tunnel" (top isn't needed, just bottom, high sides, and end. Cover the bottom with a bit of carpet or something similar. Bunnies LOVE to dig at the end of tunnels. (Same thing can be accomplished by putting a board with carpet tacked on between two pieces of heavy furniture against the wall...just be sure the board can't move or the bun will be digging the carpet beneath where the board was meant to be. 6.7 Can I discipline my rabbit not to chew? Discipline (clapping hands, saying "no") has a small role in stopping chewing behavior. Most people report that it's easy to make their bunnies understand them, but difficult to make them stop the behavior through the use of discipline only, especially if the bunnies are left alone for periods of time. Section 7.0 of this FAQ covers general companion rabbit training techniques.. 7.0 Training a companion rabbit Primary Author(s): Nancy LaRoche Sources: HRH, various articles from the HRJ Last Modified: 3/3/96 7.1 Definitions Certain words used in this article need to be explained in order to increase communication between reader and writer: "Companions:" Those who share a home and consciously interact with each other (a "family"). Companions do not "own" each other (a false notion encouraged by words often paired together such as "pet" and "owner"). "Ownership" is a position of a living being with respect to an inanimate object. Companions usually enjoy mutual benefits of their relationship, but not always at the same time, or to the same degree. "Caretaker:" Caretaking is a role played by one companion with respect to another, primarily for the benefit of the other. Any companion can be a caretaker of any other in some respects, but in this article, the term will be used to refer to companion (human)s who have accepted companion (animal)s into their family, thereby incurring responsibility for them. The scope of that responsibility is based on the relative abilities and needs of each, especially in those areas where breeding and human control have taken the ability of independent survival from a species. "Training:" An activity in which a companion (human) seeks to understand the needs of companion (animal)s in the home, and interacts with them in a manner that makes it possible for all of them to live in harmony with each other with everyone's' needs met. "Respect:" Recognition that companions of any species are entitled to be what they are, without coercion from other species, and that decisions that can only be made by one on behalf of another impinge on future decisions of that one (e.g., an animal would not choose to leave a family after being part of it, so respect requires one who has brought an animal into the family, to maintain its relationship within the family throughout its life). 7.2 Basics of rabbit behavior It is easier to train rabbits if you understand that their behavior is usually motivated by one of three things: - their natural need and inclination to chew and dig; - their need to communicate and our tendency to require words for understanding communications; and - the social structure as seen by rabbits, in which all members of the family relate to them by way of a pecking (nipping?) order. 7.3 Age and behavior Young rabbits have more energy, more need to explore, and (hopefully) less training than older rabbits have. Like puppies, bunnies love to chew. Like older dogs, rabbits may still enjoy chewing, but not to the extent they did when young. Rabbits chew to wear down their teeth, which grow continuously, but they chew non-food items because they need to explore the world through taste and texture, they need to build strong jaw muscles, and just because it's fun. Perhaps older rabbits chew less because they know the taste and texture of the world and need only food to keep their teeth worn-down and their jaws strong. In any case, time is on your side when it comes to a rabbit's inclination to chew your great-aunt's antique buffet. On the other hand, training does not happen by itself or simply with time. For the companions in a family to live in harmony, a companion (human) must be committed to giving time and effort to the companion (animals) of the family. If you aren't able or willing to commit to a minimum of 30 minutes a day of concentrated training, until the desired results have been achieved, you shouldn't bring companion (animal)s into your home. 7.4 Preparation Rabbits should have a home of their own (in the past, called a "cage") within the family home, large enough for a litter box, food dishes, toys, and them. They should be able to stretch full-length in all directions. Ideally, a "shelf" or "loft" is provided to give opportunity for vertical jumps. With such a home, and hopefully, with companionship of another rabbit, rabbits can be kept in their homes full time except for times of supervised outdoor romps and the 30 minutes (or more) of training they should have daily. In addition to restricting the time in which they are out to those times when you can watch them with your full attention, you want to restrict the space they have access to. As they become well-trained within a restricted area, you can gradually increase their boundaries. Finally, NEVER, EVER attempt to use training alone to keep a rabbit from something that can cause harm or death. Toxic house plants and electrical wires should be impossible for a rabbit to reach (see article on rabbit-proofing). Counting on training or "the way she's always behaved" with respect to such things is asking for an accident that could leave you deeply grief- stricken and your rabbit in terrible pain or even dead. 7.5 Chewing and digging During the training time, do nothing but concentrate on the rabbit. Open the door to her home and let her (or them) come out when she chooses. You may offer toys or treats from your hand, but don't interfere with her if she wants to explore. And watch her carefully throughout the time she is out of her cage. If the rabbit starts to chew on something you don't want chewed, immediately offer him as many other things that are okay to chew on as you can. Block whatever he was chewing on so it ceases to be a temptation (block it well, so you aren't simply challenging the rabbit to break through). If possible, provide something with a similar (or better) taste and texture to what is being chewed. For example, a piece of untreated, unfinished baseboard (screwed into something so it doesn't move) instead of the real baseboard; or a piece of scrap carpet instead of the real carpet (as long as the rabbit isn't ingesting the pieces he pulls out); or a piece of apple branch instead of chair legs. The same thing applies to digging. If the rabbit loves to dig in the carpet, build a small "corner" or "tunnel" with carpeting on the bottom (frequently replaced) and give this to him to distract him. Or make a digging box by blocking the end-opening of a covered litter box and cutting a hole in the side. The rabbit will go in, turn so her body runs the length of the box (providing she is large enough that her body doesn't fit cross- wise). The digging material will be flung against the sealed end of the litter box and remain contained. Use something totally dust-free and safe (corn cob litter is good) in the digging box. Rabbits, being the incredibly intelligent little creatures that they are, quickly learn. 7.6 Communicating without words Rabbits need to communicate with their companion (human)s, but of course, their communication is without words. One obvious example of such communication is struggling when they are picked up. This is simply (and obviously) saying "I don't like being picked up! Put me down! PLEASE put me down! I don't feel safe when you take control of my body this way!" There are few instances where it is appropriate for companion (human)s to force their will on a companion of another species in this way. Obviously, if a rabbit's teeth must be examined or clipped because of malocclusion, it is necessary to hold her against her will. But it is inexcusable for companions of one species to force their wills on those of another just to satisfy their own desires. If you want a rabbit who enjoys jumping on your lap and being stroked, teach him to trust you, by never grabbing or holding him against his will when he comes to you. Use treats, nose-to-nose-touching, chin-rubbing (your chin on the rabbit's face), rubbing around the ears, etc.--whatever he enjoys--to encourage his pleasure in being with you. And if he happens not to enjoy such activities, so be it. Respect and enjoy him for who he is. After all, you want the same for yourself. A rabbit who enjoys sitting on your lap and being stroked may nip you sharply if you get distracted enough to stop stroking her. She isn't trying to hurt you, just to remind you that she expects you to get back to the job at hand. When a rabbit nips in an effort to communicate appropriately such as in this case (inappropriate nipping will be discussed later), he probably doesn't realize how painful it is nor how severe the resulting bruise may be. SCREECH one high, loud, sudden, and short screech to let the rabbit know that he really hurt you. The squeal should be loud, sudden, and high enough to startle the rabbit slightly. The next time he nips (appropriately--i.e., for the purpose of communicating), you will be surprised at how much gentler it will be. Continue to squeal when nipped, however, until the nip is gentle enough to cause no pain or bruising. (Note: use ice on the bruise quickly.) 7.7 Behavior motivated by social structure Finally, we come to behavior motivated by the fact that any rabbit wants to be top-rabbit. Such behaviors have nothing to do with the chewing, digging, litter training, or nipping discussed above, but they can be confused with some of these. Throughout this discussion, keep in mind that your goal is to convince your companion (rabbit) that you are top-rabbit. This is not the same thing as forcing your will on him in a manner that ignores his needs and desires. Rather, it is an important part of establishing a normal companion-companion relationship that will meet his needs as well as yours (he will be quite content accepting you as top-rabbit and himself as subdominant to you, once he sees you as naturally dominant). It even makes it possible for you to carry out your full function as his caretaker. If a rabbit jumps onto the couch where you are sitting and nips you deliberately, she is probably trying to take the couch for her own. (This is "inappropriate nipping.") Not only should you screech, but you should firmly (though gently), return her to the floor with a sharp "No!" If she jumps back up and doesn't nip you, she's learned that she can share the couch, but not drive you off. If she jumps back up and nips again, you repeat the screech, the "No!" and the return to the floor. If she comes back a third time with a nip, it is time for her to "go to her room" (i.e., she needs to be herded back to her "cage" for a two-minute time-out). If she throws a temper tantrum in the cage, shaking the "bars" and flinging herself around, ignore her. After she's quiet again, she can come out. If she continues to try to force you from your seat, however, she may need to stay in her room (cage) until the next time she would normally be allowed out. This same general method applies whenever a rabbit attempts to dominate you. He will be much happier when he learns that his companion (human)s are top-rabbits and he isn't. Another behavior related to this attempt to dominate companion (human)s is the most unwelcome one of urinating on the piece of furniture where you often sit, or on your bed. This is the equivalent of one rabbit urinating in another rabbit's cage. The victim may accept the insult, agreeing to the dominance of the aggressor, or he may decide to fight it out. Neither of these is appropriate for a human. You can close the door to your bedroom, controlling his access to the bed (you're dominant). But it may not be so simple to close off a chair or couch in the family room you share with your companions. The most effective means I have found to declare the dominance of the companion (human) over the companion (rabbit) in this situation is to set "Snappy Trainers" (safe, mouse-trap like contraptions that can be found in "pet stores," each with a plastic fan blade that causes it to fly into the air when bumped) along the edge of the seat. The rabbit jumps onto the seat, the Snappy Trainers fly into the air, and a startled rabbit never tries to go on that piece of furniture again. The companion (human) has control of her chair. 7.8 Summary Training a companion (rabbit) requires commitment of time, effort, and thought on the part of the rabbit's companion (human). It isn't just teaching the word "No!" (which will only teach the rabbit to wait until the human isn't looking). It's learning to understand the rabbit's likes and dislikes, working to provide things he really enjoys, thinking up new possibilities when old toys become boring, and making the effort to switch toys regularly to maintain interest. Enjoy your companion (rabbit)s to the fullest! Train them well and carefully, love them with all your heart, appreciate them for who and what they are, and both of you will experience the great pleasure of sharing your lives with each other in harmony. 7.9 Further Reading 8.0 Litter Training Primary Author(s): House Rabbit Society Sources: HRH, various articles from the HRJ, RHN Last Modified: 3/3/96 8.1 Introduction By nature, rabbits choose one or a few places (usually corners) to deposit their urine and most of their pills. Urine-training involves little more than putting a litterbox where the rabbit chooses to go. Pill training requires only that you give them a place they know will not be invaded by others. Here are some suggestions to help you to train your rabbit to use the litterbox. 8.2 Does age make a difference? Older rabbits are easier to train than younger rabbits, especially babies. A rabbit's attention span and knack for learning increases as they grow up. If you have a baby, stick with it! And if you are deciding whether to adopt an older rabbit, or litter train your older rabbit, go for it! 8.3 Does Spaying/Neutering make a difference?. Yes! This is often the most important factor. When rabbits reach the age of 4-6 months, their hormones become active and they usually begin marking their territory. By spaying or neutering your rabbit, he will be more likely to use his litterbox (as well as be much healthier and happier). 8.4 What types of litter should I use? It depends on what's available in your area and what your rabbit's habits are. Keep in mind the following as you choose your litter: - most rabbits spend lots of time in their litter boxes - rabbits will always nibble some of the litter - rabbit urine has a very strong odor. House Rabbit Society recommends organic litters, made from alfalfa, oat, citrus or paper. (Some brands to look for: Care Fresh, CitraFresh, Cat Works, Cat Country, Critter Country) Stay away from litters made from softwoods, like pine or cedar shavings or chips, as these products are thought to cause liver damage in rabbits who use them. References available at: http://www.rabbit.org/care/bibliography.html#shavings Another approach is to place a handful of hay in each box, or to simply use hay as litter. Obviously, you need to change the hay fairly frequently (daily), since your rabbit will be eating it. Pros and cons of the various types of litter include: - clay litter is dusty--if your bunny is a digger, the dust can make her vulnerable to pneumonia - the deodorant crystals in some clay litters are toxic - clumping litters will clump inside the rabbit's digestive and respiratory tracts (the latter if they manage to make enough dust to breathe) causing serious problems and often leading to death - pine and cedar shavings emit gases that cause liver damage when breathed by the bunny. References available at: http://www.rabbit.org/care/bibliography.html#shavings - corn cob litter isn't absorbent and doesn't control odor but can be added, with the bunny's waste, to compost - oat- and alfalfa-based litters (available from Purina, Manna-Pro, and King-Soopers groceries (not sure what the geographical range of this chain is)) have excellent odor controlling qualities, but if a rabbit eats too much, they expand and cause bloating; these, too, can be added, with the bunny's waste, to compost - newspapers are absorbent, but don't control odor - citrus-based litters work well, offer no dangers, and can be composted, but may be hard to get and expensive in some areas of the country/world - some people have reported success with peat moss which can also be composted - Many people have great success with litter made from paper pulp or recycled paper products. These litters are very good at absorbing and cutting down on odors. A litter called CAREfresh is available by calling 1-800-242-2287. A similar litter in a pelleted form is called Cellu-Dri 1-800-382-5001. These litters are harmless if ingested. - Litters made from Aspen bark are safe and good at absorbing odors. One brand is called GentleTouch 1-800-545-9853. - An economical and safe litter is the food pellets themselves. If bought in 50 LB bags, rabbit pellets are cheaper than most litters. They don't absorb as quickly, but they do absorb and they do control odor. And of course, they can be used in compost. This option may not be the best one for a rabbit who is overweight. 8.5 Won't rabbits get confused if you use food pellets for litter? A young rabbit may use both the litter and its food dish for both food and litter. However, if you always dump the soiled food out of the dish into the litter box, and clean the dish before more food is given, the rabbit will very quickly catch on. Rabbits will nibble at the food pellets in the litter box for awhile when they are fresh, but as the litter become soiled, they lose interest. Finally, some rabbits urinate or drop pills in their dishes as a matter of course. This is not confusion, but a statement to others that "This is MY food dish!" 8.6 Cleaning and Disposal. Clean litterboxes often, to encourage your rabbit to use them. Use white vinegar to rinse boxes out--for tough stains, let pans soak. Accidents outside of the cage can be cleaned up with white vinegar or club soda. If the urine has already dried, you can try products like "Nature's Miracle" to remove the stain and odor. To dispose of organic litters, they can be used as mulch, or can be composted. Rabbit pills can be directly applied to plants as fertilizer. 8.7 What kinds of cages work best? Use a cage large enough to contain a small litterbox (along with bunny's food and water bows, toys, etc.) and still allow enough room for the rabbit to stretch out. Place the box in the corner of the cage that he goes in. With a litterbox in the cage, when the rabbit is confined to his cage when you're not home, cage time is learning time. 8.8 What if my cage is on legs or has a door that opens on top so the bunny can't get into it on his own? If it is on legs, build a ramp or stairs, or pile boxes to make steps--anything so he can come and go on his own. If the door is on top, put a small stool or box inside to help him get out, a board or piece of rug to help him walk to the edge of the cage, and a ramp, stairs, stool, or boxes to help him get down (and up again). 8.9 What if my cage is too small for a litter box or I don't use a cage? If your cage is too small for a litter box, you may have a cage that is too small for your rabbit. (See Section E on the Rabbit's Environment (not yet written).) Or you may have a dwarf rabbit and can't get a small litter box. A good substitute is a Pyrex baking dish. Even 9" x 9" is sufficient for a Netherland Dwarf. You may have a cage with wire on the bottom and a tray underneath that catches the urine. In this case, the tray is the litter box and the cage itself is where the bunny learns to go. You can often place the litter box in the tray, under the cage, so that you need not fill the entire bottom with litter. If you don't use a cage, you need to give the bunny a particular area to call its own. Just put a litter box wherever the bunny seems to prefer. 8.10 Pills vs. Urine. All rabbits will drop pills around their cages to mark it as their own. This is not failure to be litter-trained. It is very important for your rabbit to identify the cage as her property so that when she leaves the cage for the bigger world of your house, she will distinguish the family's area from her own and avoid marking it. To encourage this, make the rabbit the king of his cage. Try not to force him in or out of it-- coax him. Do not do things to his cage that he doesn't like, or things to him that he doesn't like while he's in the cage. The trick to getting the rabbit to keep his pills in the cage is to give him ownership of his cage--respect the cage as HIS: - Don't reach into the cage to take him out; open the door and let him come out if and when HE wants to come; - Don't catch him and put him back in the cage or it will be his prison, not his home. Herd him back gently, and let him choose to go in to get away from you (I walk behind my buns, clap my hands, and say "bedtime." They know that I'll not stop harassing them with this until they go into their cage, so they run in except when they feel they haven't gotten their fair share of time outside the cage.) It's a bit like a child going home and closing the door, because someone is calling her names. They may make the playground an unpleasant place for her, but they can't bother her in her own home. If the rabbit has been snuggling with you, it's okay to carry him to the door of the cage and let him go in--just don't put him directly into the cage, and never chase and trap him and put him in the cage. - Don't reach into the cage to get food dishes--anchor them near the door of the cage so they can be filled with a minimum of trespassing into the cage, or wait until the rabbit is out to fill them. - Don't clean the cage while the rabbit is in it--wait until he comes out. He'll come over and supervise you, even help you move things around that you've set down outside the cage, but as long as he isn't in the cage, he won't see your cleaning as an invasion of his territory. (Smart rabbits--I wouldn't object if someone were cleaning my house, either... :-) ) The same technique can be used if a rabbit doesn't live in a cage, but in a particular part of a room. Mark the territory with a rug, tape, whatever, and don't trespass over that. 8.11 Can the rabbit have a running space? Even if your goal is to let your rabbit have full run of the house, you must start small. Start with a cage and a small running space, and when your rabbit is sufficiently well-trained in that space, gradually give her more space. But do so gradually! If you overwhelm her with too much freedom before she's ready, she will forget where her box is and will lose her good habits. 8.12 So what's the actual method? Start with a box in the cage, and one or more boxes in the rabbit's running space. If she urinates in a corner of the cage not containing the box, move the box to that corner until she gets it right. Don't be concerned if your bunny curls up in his litterbox--this is natural. Once she's using the box in the cage, open her door and allow her into her running space. Watch her go in and out on her own. If she heads to a corner where there's no box, or lifts up her tail in the characteristic fashion, cry "no" in a single, sharp burst of sound. Gently herd her back to her cage and her litterbox, or into one of the boxes in her room. Be careful, however. You don't want to make the cage or the litterbox seem like punishment. A handful of hay in the box makes it a more welcoming place. After she first uses the box, praise her and give her her favorite treat. Once she uses the box in her room a couple of times, you're well on your way, as her habits will be on their way to forming. As she gets better trained in her first room, you can increase her space. Don't hurry this process. And if the area becomes very big, or includes a second floor, be sure to include more litterboxes, so as not to confuse her. Remember, as she becomes more confident and uses fewer boxes, you can start to remove some of her early, "training" boxes. Get your rabbit into a daily routine and try not to vary it. Rabbits are very habitual and once a routine is established, they usually prefer to stick with it. 8.13 How many litterboxes? The more, the merrier, especially if your rabbit is a bit of a slow learner, or is especially obstinate about where she wants her box(es) to go. As her habits improve, you can decrease the number of litterboxes. 8.14 Kicking litter out of the box Some rabbits love to kick their litter out of the box. You can get a covered litterbox (with a hood) to help solve this problem. You can also try experimenting with different litters. 8.15 Urinating over the edge of the litterbox A second problem is that rabbits often back up so far in the litterbox that the urine goes over the edge. Again, a covered litterbox can solve this problem. Another solution would be to get a dishpan or other type of tub with much higher sides. Still another solution would be to get a "urine guard" to place around the back of the cage, to keep the litter from spraying outside of the cage. 8.16 What to do if your rabbit insists on using another spot Compromise. If your rabbit continually urinates in a spot where there is no litterbox, put his box where he will use it, even if it means rearranging his cage or moving a table in the living room. It is much easier to oblige him than to try to work against a determined bunny! 8.17 What are the most common litter training mistakes? 1. Letting the bunny out of the cage and not watching her with undivided attention; (You can't watch TV or read the paper or knit or talk on the phone and expect to keep your mind on what the bunny is doing every second--if she urinates without being "caught" and herded to the litter box, she'll be that much slower in learning what she's supposed to do.) 2. Getting in a hurry. (Bunnies take time. Perhaps that's one of their special gifts to us in this hectic world. They require that we take time out to sit and watch and do nothing else. Besides getting a well-trained bunny for your efforts, you also get a short period of time each day to watch one of the most charming little creatures on earth explore, skip for joy, and in general entertain you with her bunny-ness.) 8.18 What should I do if my rabbit starts dribbling all over her cage instead of using the litter box? Dribbles usually indicate a bladder infection. Get your bunny to a rabbit-veterinarian who will probably put her on an antibiotic. If the dribbling stops, you know that that was the problem. (Fear antibiotics given by veterinarians not familiar with rabbits as companion animals!) If the "dribbles" are more than dribbles, or if the antibiotic doesn't stop the problem, consider any factors that may be making your bunny feel insecure (new pet, house guests, change in location of cage, etc.), any of which can cause a bunny to mark her cage more enthusiastically (similar to someone having a dispute with a neighbor about the location of a fence setting up a flag at the property boundary marker). 8.19 Why does my rabbit urinate or leave pills right beside the litterbox? The three most common things that are related to poor litter habbits (especially if the bun had been using the litterbox in the past) are: 1) Urinary Tract infections; sludge in the bladder; bladder stones; kidney disease. A common example is Oreo, a 8.5 year Dutch who had 75% kidney failure and began urinating on the floor next to the litterbox when her problems first began. Hershey (her mate) did the same thing when he had a severe UTI last year. After the UTI was cleared up, he began to use the litterbox again. Behavior related. Once the possibility of physiological causes is eliminated, the behavioral reasons seem to go something like this: Miz bun eliminates next to her litterbox because of some stress, eg, a break in her routine such as less or more running time than usual, visitors at home, kids home from college or summer camp, any intensely emotional event whether good or bad. it could even be a single incident such as being frightened by a sudden noise (car backfiring, etc) while she's in her box, which she then associates with being in the box. whatever the reason, she's feeling insecure and tries to rebuild her confidence by "underlining her signature" (signature being her droppings in the box; underlining, the puddles/piles beside it). Unless it's an ongoing stress that can be removed, figuring out the cause is not particularly relevant. the important factor is not what happened the first time but the habit that often grows from it. she pees beside the box today because she did it yesterday. many people do not take action for the first few incidents, especially with a rabbit who's always been good about using the litterbox. they figure it's a fluke that will disappear as suddenly as it started. this gives the habit time to take firm root. by day 3, the habit is fairly entrenched, and correction of the perceived cause will not solve the problem.

What WILL solve it? the usual: confinement, praise, rewards, vigilant observation and supervision during free-run time. but there's a catch-22 to this method. it generally requires a change in miz bun's routine, which is a common cause for the behavior in the first place. i know of no easy way around this knot. the hard way is to confine, praise, etc with minimal change to her usual routine. sometimes i add a box to the rabbit's area. the novelty makes the box attractive (as do treats placed in it). she hops in to investigate, and voila! she eliminates IN A BOX. this is good behavior, worthy of lavish rewards. it's often easier to get her to go in a new box than to go in the one she's been eliminating next to. It's important for people to understand that this process can take time. A rabbit who's been perfectly box-trained for 3 years and has peed next to the box for 3 days may need 3 weeks of intensive training to get back to her old, good behavior. why is it that bad habits take longer to undo than to initiate while the reverse is true of good habits? Territory related. Winston, a religious litterbox user began urinating on the floor next to the litterbox near the gate...when Buttercup arrived on the opposite side of the gate. After Winston got used to Buttercup, and had "his" territory sufficiently marked, he stopped using the floor and resumed using the litterbox. 8.19 Further Reading 9.0 Rabbit-Proofing Your House Primary Author(s): Nancy LaRoche Sources: HRH, various articles from the HRJ, RHN Last Modified: 3/3/96 9.1 What does rabbit proofing involve? Rabbit Proofing one's home involves three things: 1) Preventing destruction of your property; 2) Protecting your companion rabbit(s) from harm; and. 3) Providing safe and fun chewing alternatives for your rabbit. 9.2 Why is rabbit proofing your home so important?? Preventing rabbits from chewing on electrical cords is of utmost importance, since rabbits can be badly burned or electrocuted. The consequences of biting into an electric wire are too severe to risk relying on training alone. Instead, you must take action to move the cords safely out of reach. Some ways of doing this follow. 9.3 So how do I keep electrical cords out of reach? - Spiral cable wrap. Radio Shack sells something called "spiral cable wrap". It costs about $1.50 for 3 feet and works like a charm. You wrap the electrical and phone cords in this spiral plastic sheath and the rabbits don't seem to want to chew them any more - perhaps because the wrap has the effect of thickening the cords so they no longer are bite-sized. This stuff is very flexible so the cords are still manageable after wrapping. It works well with cords that you might have in the middle of the room or might move quite often, such as vacuum cleaner, phone, lamp and other cords

- Plastic tubing (similar to that used in fish tanks, or with "swamp coolers") from a hardware or aquarium store can be slit lengthwise with a blade and the wire can be tucked safely inside. A harder, black, pre-slit type of tubing is also available. - Decorative gold and wood-grained wire-concealers that stick to the base of walls come in strips, corners, etc., so they can follow the shape of the wall. This is a more costly and time consuming method than the clear plastic tubing above, but is more permanent, and rabbit proof, as well. - Of course, wires can be run under or behind furniture or carpets in order to hide them. 9.4 How do I keep my rabbit from eating house plants? Most house plants are toxic. Putting them on high furniture may not keep a rabbit away. Hang them from the ceiling if you have an active bunny, but watch for falling leaves! If you are unsure which plants may be toxic, the House Rabbit Handbook has a complete list of poisonous plants (indoors and outdoors), as do two back issues of House Rabbit Journal. 9.5 How do I protect baseboards and wooden furniture? If a rabbit insists on chewing baseboards, edges of chairs, etc., a board can be put over the places of temptation, making them inaccessible while also providing an acceptable chewing surface. This method should be combined with training your rabbit not to chew on these items. 9.6 How do I protect upholstered furniture and beds? Upholstered furniture and beds that are several inches off the ground are wonderful places for rabbits to hide underneath. However, some will burrow up into the soft underside and make a nest. A flat cardboard box or frame of 2x4s, smaller than the area of the future base, will keep the rabbit out, and won't be seen from human level. 10.0 Housing Primary Author(s): House Rabbit Society Sources: HRH, various articles from the HRJ, RHN Last Modified: 3/3/96 10.1 Is it OK to keep my rabbit in a cage with a wire floor? - Rabbits were not designed to live on wire floors--they're hard on their feet (which have no pads on the, like cats or dogs). If you must use a cage with a wire floor, you need to provide your rabbit with a resting board or rug for her to sit on, otherwise she will spend all of her time in her litterbox. - You can find cages with slatted plastic floors, which are more comfortable, or you can use a solid floor. As long as your rabbit has a litterbox in the corner that he chooses as his bathroom, there shouldn't be much of a mess to clean up. 10.2 What size cage is best? Bigger is better! A cage should be at least 4 times the size of your bunny--more if he is confined for a large amount of the day. You can build your rabbit a two-store "condo" with the floors connected by a ramp--they love this! 10.3 Can my new bunny run loose 24 hours a day? An untrained rabbit probably should be kept in a cage while you're not home to supervise and at night when you sleep. Rabbits are crepuscular, which means that generally they sleep during the day and during the night but are ready to play at dawn and at twilight. Be sure to let them out during the evening when you are home, and if possible, in the morning while you get ready for work. 10.4 What can I do to make the rabbit's cage time more enjoyable? A cage should be seen as the rabbit's "nest." A special place where he can feel safe and secure. Make the nest enjoyable and she will enjoy being there, even when the cage door is open! Keep it stocked with baby toys, a synthetic sheepskin rug, a piece of wood attached to the inside (like a baseboard), and when you put him to bed at night, a nice veggie or fruit snack. 10.5 When is it OK to let a rabbit run loose in the house? When your rabbit is better trained, and when your house (or the part that your rabbit will have access to) has been sufficiently bunny-proofed, your rabbit can be allowed free run of the home (or part of it) even when you are not home. The more room your rabbit has to run around in, the more delightful you will find her as a companion. Even when a rabbit has a lot of room to run around, he may still get bored. A bored rabbit is often a naughty rabbit. If you don't make every attempt to provide your rabbit with lots of entertainment, in the form of boxes, baskets, brooms, sticks, magazines, phone books, grass mats, etc., then he will make his own entertainment in your carpet, behind your couch or under your recliner. 10.6 Can I let my rabbit run loose outside? Always supervise your rabbit when she's outside. It takes just a few seconds for the neighbor's dog to jump the fence and attack or frighten your rabbit to death. Make sure that the grass has not been sprayed with pesticides or fertilizers. Check the yard for holes in the fence and poisonous plants. Under no circumstances should rabbits be left outside after dark. Predators are possums, raccoons, skunks, coyotes, dogs and occasionally cats. If you have an outside enclosure that you feel is very secure, a rabbit can still die of fright while a predator taunts the rabbit from outside. 11.0 Rabbits Outdoors Primary Author(s): House Rabbit Society Sources: HRH, various articles from the HRJ, RHN Last Modified: 3/3/96 11.1 Overview The pleasures of being outdoors include fresh air, sunshine, and freedom to run, chew and dig. For a prey animal such as a rabbit, your garden can also be a place of danger from: Predators Theft or teasing by humans Moldy or poisonous plants Toxic pesticides or fertilizers Exposure to sun, heat, wind, or wet Bacteria contained in dirt Diseases spread by flies and mosquitoes 11.2 What is the greatest outdoor risk for rabbits? The greatest threat is attack by predators. These occur primarily at night, but can also happen occasionally in the daytime. Hutches or cages do not provide enough protection to make it safe to leave the rabbit outdoors 24 hours a day. The House Rabbit Society receives many calls every week from baffled people whose rabbit died during the night while confined in a hutch. "I don't understand Ñ the hutch wasn't even unlocked, and the rabbit didn't have a mark on him. What happened?" With her acute vision, hearing, and smell, a rabbit can sense the presence of a predator such as a raccoon even in your neighbor's yard. She may panic and injure herself, or she may die of shock. Many raccoons can open hutches. Other predators include coyotes, owls, hawks, possums, cats and dogs. 11.3 I live in the city. Do I still need to worry about predators? Don't think your yard is free of predators just because you live in the city. Raccoons come up through storm drains and arrive in very urban areas. These agile animals can climb tress and open doors. Wire cages are no protection for your bunny. If your bunny cannot stay in your house at night, make sure that he's enclosed within solid walls and behind a solid door Ñ a garage, shed, or basement Ñ with a good lock. 11.4 My rabbit has lived outside for a long time without harm from predators - why should I consider bringing her inside now? Some outdoor rabbits avoid death by predator or the other risks mentioned. But what is the quality of life for an animal living outdoors all the time? And what sort of relationship can you build if your bunny is out there and you're indoors? A life spent confined to a hutch is boring, depressing, and stressful for a sensitive creature such as a rabbit. A life spent unconfined but outdoors is simply too dangerous for domestic animals. By domesticating them, we have deprived them of whatever natural ability they had for survival on their own. If your rabbit currently lives outdoors, we strongly urge you to bring her in at least during the night, when predators are most common. Even if she's confined to a smaller cage, or a bathroom or utility room, she's safe, and she's making a first step to being part of your family. There's no magic in turning an "outdoor rabbit" into a house rabbit. It can begin in a single evening. 11.5 What kinds of safe daytime exercise can I provide outdoors? For safe daytime exercise, we suggest a pen within your fenced yard, one with a top and bottom as well as sides, to keep the rabbit from digging out and unwelcome visitors from climbing or jumping in. A plan from the House Rabbit Handbook (Drollery Press, 1991) describes an 8'L X 32"W X 32"H made from a frame of pine 2 X 4's and 1" welded wire. A plywood top gives shelter and shade, and a wire floor covered with clean straw provides the rabbit with safe material to burrow in. 12.0 Toys Primary Author(s): Margo DeMello Sources: HRH, various articles from the HRJ, RHN Last Modified: 3/3/96 12.1 Why is it important to provide toys? Toys are important because they provide: - Mental stimulation. Without challenging activities to occupy your rabbit when you're not home, your rabbit, especially a solitary rabbit, will get bored. This could lead to depression and/or excessive destruction. The creative use of toys can extend your rabbit's life by keeping him interested in his surroundings, by giving him the freedom to interact with those surroundings, and by allowing him to constantly learn and grow. - Physical exercise. Your rabbit needs safe activities to keep her body in shape as well as her mind. She needs things to climb on, crawl under, hop on and around, dig into, and chew on. Without outlets for these physical needs, your rabbit may become fat or depressed, or may create jumping, chewing, or crawling diversions with your furniture. - Bunny proofing for your home. As is clear from the above descriptions, toys are not just for your rabbit, they also keep your house safe. By providing your rabbit with a selection of toys chosen to meet her age, sex, reproductive status and temperament, you have fulfilled most of the requirements of bunnyproofing your home. 12.2 What are good bunny toys? Some good toys to start with: - Paper Bags and Cardboard boxes for crawling inside, scratching, and chewing - Cardboard concrete forms for burrowing - Cardboard roll from paper towels or toilet paper - Untreated wicker baskets or boxes full of: shredded paper, junk mail, magazines, straw, or other organic materials for digging - Yellow Pages for shredding - Cat toys: Batta balls, and other cat toys that roll or can be tossed - Parrot toys that can be tossed, or hung from the top of the cage and chewed or hit - Baby toys: hard plastic (not teething) toys like rattles and keys, things that can be tossed - Children's or birds' mobiles for hitting - "Lazy cat lodge" (cardboard box with ramps and windows) to climb in and chew on. Also, kitty condos, tubes, tunnels, and trees - Nudge and roll toys like large rubber balls, empty Quaker Oat boxes and small tins - "Busy Bunny" toys - Rainbow slinkies - Toys with ramps and lookouts for climbing and viewing the world - Dried out pine cones - Jungle gym type toys from Toys R Us - A (straw) whisk broom - A hand towel for bunching and scooting - Untreated wood, twigs and logs that have been aged for at least 3 months (apple tree branches can be eaten fresh off the tree. Stay away from: cherry, peach, apricot, plum and redwood, which are all poisonous. - Untreated sea grass or maize mats from Pier One or Cost Plus Imports Please note: Toys should be for chewing and diffing - not for eating. We recently received mail from someone whos rabbit just underwent stomach surgery for an impaction. It turns out that what impacted was the cardboard from the toilet paper rolls that she swallowed instead of just chewing. If you find your rabbit ingesting some types of toys, consider switching to a different type of toy that the rabbit is not interested in eating. 13.0 Aggressive Rabbits Primary Author(s): Susan Davis Sources: HRH, various articles from the HRJ, RHN Last Modified: 3/3/96 13.1 Introduction People are often shocked the first time they see a rabbit display anger. Bunnies, after all, are supposed to be timid and sweet, not outspoken and nasty, and the sudden appearance of sharp teeth and raking claws can be disarming. But whether your rabbit is nipping the hand that feeds him, chasing you across the room, or latching his teeth, pitbull-style, into your calf, it's not unusual and it's not hopeless. In fact, working with an aggressive rabbit can be extremely rewarding. Many House Rabbit Society members have found that aggressive rabbits are often very intelligent animals who are just trying to express themselves. Once they're given some respect and some ground rules, that expression can turn to boundless energy, enthusiasm, and affection. 13.2 The Basics of Rabbit Aggression: Ballistic Bunnies 101 Aggressive rabbits can be scary. Rabbits bite hard, kick hard, and move fast, so it's not unusual for owners to get intimated, or start dreaming of dumping Boopsie at the pound. So before you even approach Boopsie, convince yourself of the following principles: 1) Rabbits aren't born mean. Ninety-nine percent of aggressive rabbits have a behavioral problem, not a genetic one. Behavior can be changed, so give your bunny a chance. 2) Your rabbit doesn't hate you. There may be a slight chance that Boopsie has taken a personal dislike to one person. More likely, she's afraid you're going to hurt her. Nevertheless... 3) You're the only one who can solve the problem. Boopsie won't wake up one day and say, "Gee, maybe I should be nicer to Jane." It's the humans who have to figure out what's wrong and initiate new ways of interacting. 4) You can't hit a rabbit. Some people try to "teach" their bunnies not to bite by swatting their noses or even hitting them with newspapers. This will only aggravate the problem. You need to reassure your rabbit that her environment is safe. 13.3 Common Aggression Scenarios The first step in helping an aggressive rabbit is figuring out what's making him tick. The following scenarios, all taken from real life, illustrate the basic causes of aggression and some easy ways to solve it. (Names have been changed to protect the reformed). 13.4 "Every time I walk in the room, Netty circles my feet and bites my ankles. Does she want something from me?" She does--and you can't give it to her. Circling, mounting, and biting are classic signs of a sexually frustrated bunny. It may be cute at first, but it can develop into a pretty nasty habit. Neutering males and spaying females can dramatically reduce aggressive behavior. In the meantime, try the suggestions listed below to protect you and your loved ones. 13.5 "When I put my hand down for my new rabbit, Jaws, to sniff she lunges at it. Doesn't she like the way I smell?" It ain't the smell, it's the motion. Rabbits have great long- distance eyesight. Their near-distance vision isn't so great. A human hand in front a rabbit's face can be very startling. To break Jaws of her lunging habit, keep your hands above her head and away from her nose. When she looks aggravated, press her head very gently to the floor. She'll interpret this as your being the dominant bunny. 13.6 "Attilla is adorable. But when we reach into his cage to pull him out he bites our hands. What's wrong?" Rabbits can be very territorial. The first step to helping this rabbit is to stop dragging him out of his cage; he needs a place to call his own. Open the door and let him come and go on his own time. Wait until he's out of his cage to clean it, change his water, or do other housekeeping chores. After a few weeks, you can begin to try to touch him in his cage, but don't grab him or mess with his stuff. Wear gloves so you don't jerk your hand around, which may provoke him. Keep your hand above his head and then calmly and quickly bring it down to the top of his head. If he lets you touch his head, very softly stroke it. Tell him what a great big, brave, beautiful rabbit he is. Then let him alone until the next day, when you try the exercise again. Eventually he should associate your hand in the cage with a nice nose rub, not being grabbed. 13.7 "Sometimes when I try to stop Baby from eating the carpet she nips my hands. Am I hurting her?" No, you're bugging her. Nipping is often a rabbit's way of saying "back-off " or "get out of my way" or "quit putting the wet stuff in my ears." It's understandable, but it's not the greatest behavior for a house pet. You can try pressing her head down. You can also try squealing "EEEK!" when she nips, so she realizes she's actually hurting you. Many rabbits will learn to nudge your hand instead, or simply hop away. You might also decide that little nips as communication are ok in your household. 13.8 "Piggy has started biting my hands when I put the food down. What's her problem?" Piggy is probably an enthusiastic eater. But she may not be sure you're going to put the food down. If you're putting the bowl down, make sure you put it right down--don't make her beg or dance for it. Feed her on a regular schedule so she can count on chow at a certain time of day. And don't overdo the snacks--it makes some rabbits expect a treat every time you walk in the room. If she bites when you hand feed her, it's probably because she can't see what smells so good. Try feeding her larger treats (like parsley sprigs or carrots) until she gets her aim down (some rabbits have to practice). You can also try feeding small treats, like raisins or banana, with wooden spoons or tongs. That way you can hold the treat steady for her without losing a thumb. 13.9 Extremely Aggressive Rabbits: Bunnies Who Run With the Wolves Some rabbits are so "mean" they seem more like predators than prey. These are the rabbits who chase you across the room and up into chairs, who sink their teeth into your tender limbs and refuse to let go, or who growl at you when you approach. They're the rabbits most likely to be dumped or put to sleep. Unfortunately, they're often the ones who have suffered the most in life because somewhere along the line they learned that humans, or life itself, is not safe. If your rabbit is neutered or spayed, there can be any number of reasons he's aggressive. If you just got him, he may be stressed out by the move. His last owner may have frightened him somehow. He may have never had much contact with a human before. Or, if he used to be a hutch rabbit, the noises, smells, and sights of a house may be overwhelming him. One of the best things you can do for your relationship with this kind of rabbit is to protect yourself. Wear gloves, long sleeves, long pants, and real shoes when you're around him. This will protect your flesh. It will also help you keep calm. If your skin is protected, you're not as likely to jump, squeal or flail your arms, all of which might provoke or frighten him more. Now start playing detective. Watch him closely to see what provokes him. It may be your touching anything in his view. It may be the movement of your legs when you walk . It may be a certain sound--like a rattling newspaper or the vacuum cleaner. It may be your reaching out to touch him or feed him. Whatever it is, don't do it. He needs to learn that you're not out to get him. Then turn on the charm. One of the key lessons that House Rabbit Society members have learned is that affection works wonders on psycho bunnies. Try acting like he's the greatest thing that ever happened in your life, despite the bandages on your hand and the boots on your feet. Give him a big hello when you see him. Greet his every act of aggression with good humor too. When he charges your arm, say "why hello, you little pumpkin!" while calmly removing your arm from his reach. If he growls and thumps, say, "yes, you're a BIG rabbit --I love that about you!" If he streaks across the room with murder in his eyes, simply say, "hey buddy, are you coming to see me?" You can ruffle his fur, sing a little song, say a little prayer, whatever it takes to greet his bad temper with joy, affection, and calmness. It takes courage, but if you have gloves and shoes on, you're safe. If he looks like he's going to bite, put your hand on his head, but continue to be cheerful. You can try saying EEK too--but be careful with this. Some nervous rabbits are provoked by a high-pitched squeal. Rabbits think in patterns; your job is to change the pattern, so he realizes that his approach provokes affection from you, not harm. Eventually he'll associate you with kind words, nice pats, and enthusiasm for his particular personality. Your bunny probably won't change overnight. It can take weeks for a rabbit to learn to trust. But that's what's so rewarding, and so moving, about helping aggressive rabbits. Your not just changing his behavior; your changing his perception of the world. As you do so, you'll alleviate a lot of his suffering. 14.0 Introducing Rabbits Primary Author(s): Margo DeMello Sources: HRH, various articles from the HRJ, RHN Last Modified: 3/3/96 14.1 What are the possible types of introductions? - Boy and girl: one of the easiest, often fall in love at first sight, but not always - Girl and girl: sometimes easy, often fighting - Boy and boy: sometimes easy, sometimes difficult, usually fighting at first, but not at all impossible - Two babies: extremely easy - Three or more rabbits: Difficulty varies, depending on sexes, personalities, and whether or not two of the rabbits are already bonded - Baby and adult: Sometimes difficult, but goes well if adult is very tolerant - Bringing home a rabbit to an existing rabbit. Much easier if you bring a girl home to a boy than if you bring a rabbit home to a girl. - Bringing two rabbits home at the same time. Quite easy, even if they're same sex. Usually the new space is enough to make them become friends quite on their own. 14.2 What are the possible scenarios after first introduction? - Love at first sight. If this occurs, you can try them in the space they're going to live in. If it's still good, then they're fine, you have nothing else to do. - Tentative friendship: If this occurs, just watch them when they're together, keep them separate when you're not around, and if no fighting occurs, they'll eventually become friends. - Amorous behavior: If the (neutered) male mounts the female, and the female does not mind, then this is usually a sign that the relationship will go well. If she does mind, and runs, it is still not usually a problem. If she minds, and becomes aggressive towards him, then you must prepare for a lengthier introduction period. - One chasing, one running. If this occurs, just make sure the one running doesn't fight back and doesn't get hurt. If neither of these things occurs, then just watch and wait. If one gets hurt, then separate them and go slower and if one fights back, then you must prepare for a lengthier introduction period. - Fighting. When two new rabbits (or, for that matter, two existing rabbits) fight, then you must prepare for a full introduction period. 14.3 How To's: Work with Space Rabbits are extremely territorial. In wild rabbits, territorial behavior includes depositing marking pellets at the boundaries of the territory, chinning, urinating, and aggressive behavior such as digging, circling, and fighting. Wild males tend to defend larger territories while females concentrate on their nests. In our neutered domestic companions, hormonal causes may be absent, but territorial behavior still exists. Thus, when introducing new rabbits, territory must be considered and used to your advantage. What you are trying to do is eliminate the possibility for there to develop any territorial behavior in the rabbits. So you choose introductory spaces that are as different from your bunny's territory as possible. You are also trying to mimic positive feelings in your rabbits. By creating artificial situations where your bunnies are snuggling, rubbing noses, smelling each others' fur, etc., you are creating positive memories, even if they are also stressful. I call this "coerced closeness." They are positive in the sense that they don't associate the other bun with the stress (of the car ride, for example), they associate the other rabbit with the feelings of security that they receive. If they fight, then they will carry THOSE bad memories around with them, and will remember that they fought together. Always introduce rabbits, regardless of sex or age, in neutral space first. (Obviously, if you're bringing home two bunnies together, then any space in your home is neutral space.) Possible neutral spaces might be: a room that your rabbit has never been in, a friend's home or apartment, the seat of a car, on top of the kitchen table, the garage, the bathtub, the back yard, etc. - Try to bring your current rabbit with you to pick up your new rabbit, so that they can share that first car ride together. - Work with the rabbits for at least 20 minutes per day. Make sure to spend some time with the rabbits in one or more neutral space every day. When you're not actively working with them, they should be apart if they fight when together. If they do not fight, then they can be left alone if you're not working with them, but not when you're not home at all. - Every day, try using two different situations, one relatively stressful (like a car ride), followed by one relatively normal (the floor of a new room, the top of the bed). That way, you can try to gradually transition them from strange to normal situations, without them fighting. If you immediately attempt to let them run around on the floor together, without first having taken them for a car ride, they may forget that the space is neutral and fight anyway. - Use a water bottle (with the nozzle set on "stream") to break up any fights if they occur. It's best to spray the instigator before a fight actually occurs (watch for aggressive body language) rather than work on breaking up an existing fight. None of these suggestions will work by themselves, and none will work immediately (usually). Work with your rabbits every day, for at least twenty minutes or so a day, and when you're not working with them, keep them in eye contact of each other.. Start with extreme scenarios and gradually move to less extreme. Do one extreme and one less extreme every day. The more often you work with them, the quicker the progress. If you want to move at a quicker pace, then you need to arrange a large block of time (like a week's vacation) in an extremely neutral space (like a friend's or relative's house). If one rabbit is elderly or otherwise compromised, then go slowly to minimize the stress. 15.0 Diet Primary Author(s): Marinell Harriman Sources: HRH, various articles from the HRJ, RHN Last Modified: 3/3/96 15.1 What are the basics of a good house rabbit diet? A rabbit's diet should be made up of good quality pellets, fresh hay (alfalfa, timothy or oat), water and fresh vegetables. Anything beyond that is a "treat" and should be given in limited quantities. 15.2 What makes a good pellet? Pellets should be fresh, and should be relatively high in fiber (18% minimum fiber). Do not purchase more than 6 weeks worth of feed at a time, as it will become spoiled. Pellets should make up less of a rabbit's diet as he or she grows older, and hay should be available 24 hours a day. 15.3 What kinds of veggies should I feed my rabbit? When shopping for vegetables , look for a selection of different veggies--look for both dark leafy veggies and root vegetables, and try to get different colors. Stay away from beans and rhubarb. 15.4 Is feeding hay important? Hay is essential to a rabbit's good health, providing roughage which reduces the danger of hairballs and other blockages. Apple tree twigs also provide good roughage. 15.5 What quantities of food should I feed Babies and "teenagers"? - Birth to 3 weeks--mother's milk - 3 to 4 weeks--mother's milk, nibbles of alfalfa and pellets - 4 to 7 weeks--mother's milk, access to alfalfa and pellets - 7 weeks to 7 months--unlimited pellets, unlimited hay (plus see 12 weeks below) - 12 weeks--introduce vegetables (one at a time, quantities under 1/2 oz.) 15.6 What quantities of food should I feed young adults? (7 months to 1 year) - introduce grass and oat hays, decrease alfalfa - decrease pellets to 1/2 cup per 6 lbs. body weight - increase daily vegetables gradually - fruit daily ration no more than 1 oz. to 2 oz. per 6 lbs. body weight (because of calories) 15.7 What quantities of food should I feed mature adults? (1 to 5 years) - Unlimited grass hay, oat hay, straw - 1/4 to 1/2 cup pellets per 6 lbs. body weight (depending on metabolism and/or proportionate to veggies) - Minimum 2 cups chopped vegetables per 6 lbs. body weight - fruit daily ration no more than 2 oz. (2 TBL) per 6 lbs. body weight 15.8 What quantities of food should I feed senior rabbits? (Over 6 years) - If sufficient weight is maintained, continue adult diet - Frail, older rabbits may need unrestricted pellets to keep weight up. Alfalfa can be given to underweight rabbits, only if calcium levels are normal. Annual blood workups are highly recommended for geriatric rabbits. 15.9 If I feed fewer pellets, how do I compensate? When you feed a lower quantity of pellets, you must replace the nutritional value without the calories, which is done by increasing the vegetables. Also, a variety of hay and straw must be encouraged all day long, we do this by offering fresh hay a couple of times a day. 16.0 Medical Concerns for Companion Rabbits Primary Author(s): Sandi Ackerman Sources: HRH, various articles from the HRJ Last Modified: 3/3/96 16.1 Red Urine. Rabbits' urine varies in color from clear to yellow to brown to bright red. This is usually not a cause for alarm unless there are additional signs such as sitting and straining to urinate, loss of appetite or temperature. When you see red urine, don't panic. Just keep your eyes open for other signs that might indicate a problem. If in doubt, you can have your veterinarian test to see whether there is blood in the urine. 16.2 Amoxicillin Danger. Never let a veterinarian give your rabbit amoxicillin. It is a pink liquid antibiotic that smells like bubble gum. Amoxicillin is very dangerous for rabbits (see: http://www.rabbit.org/care/bibliography.html#amoxicillin for references) , and has killed many more than it has helped. Any penicillin-based drug can be dangerous for your rabbit, so try to find a veterinarian who is knowledgeable about rabbit-safe antibiotics, and who is familiar with the safer drugs such as Chloramphenicol, Tetracycline, sulfa-drugs based like Septra or TMS, or enrofloxins such as Baytril or Cipro. 16.3 Cedar and Pine Shavings. These are very bad for your rabbit and other pets. The aromatic hydrocarbons produced from softwood beddings can cause both respiratory and liver damage in rabbits and other small animals. References available at: http://www.rabbit.org/care/bibliography.html#shavings Use organic litter in the litter box and put newspaper in the cage tray. 16.4 Spay/Neuter. The House Rabbit Society has had over 1000 rabbits spayed or neutered with approximately .1% mortality due to anesthesia. On the other hand, the risk of reproductive cancer (which is fatal) for an unspayed female rabbit stands at approximately 85%, which makes spaying a necessity. For male rabbits, the benefits are primarily behavioral (eliminating spraying and hormone-related aggression), but are just as important. A knowledgeable rabbit veterinarian can spay or neuter your rabbit with very little risk to a healthy rabbit. 16.5 Teeth. Rabbits' teeth can be misaligned. This condition is known as malocclusion, which means that a rabbit's constantly-growing teeth are not wearing down properly. If the misalignment is bad, the teeth will need to be clipped periodically so that the rabbit can eat. Your veterinarian can do this for you, or can show you how to do it at home. Usually malocclusion just strikes the front teeth, but occasionally, the back teeth can also be misaligned. One indication of this is a wet chin that is caused by drooling. If this is the case, your rabbit will need his molars trimmed by a veterinarian on a regular basis. 16.6 Hairballs. Rabbits shed their hair every three months. Every second shedding is light, followed three months later by a heavy shedding. This is an important factor in rabbit deaths. You need to brush and comb your rabbit to get the hair off of them when they start to shed. Rabbits groom themselves like cats and will ingest all of the loose hair, which they cannot vomit as can cats. For this reason, besides regular grooming, they must have constant access to fresh hay every day, as the fiber helps the hair pass through the digestive system. You can also give your rabbit cat hairball preparations such as Petromalt or Laxatone once a week when not shedding and daily during their molt. Finally, daily exercise is another important factor in the prevention of hairballs. 16.7 Surgeries. Make sure your rabbit is in good health prior to elective surgeries. Food and water should not be removed from a rabbit the evening before surgery! Any change in diet can upset a rabbit's sensitive digestive tract and cause problems in post- operative recovery. One of the reasons some veterinarians recommend removing animals' food before surgery is the possibility that they may vomit. Rabbits cannot throw up, thus this is not a concern. Additionally, some veterinarians are concerned about spaying rabbits with a full cecum. Unfortunately, the cecum would take 3-4 days of fasting to empty out, and by that time, the rabbit would be dead. So please, do not fast your rabbit before surgery! After surgery, make sure the rabbit's cage is clean, and check her incision site daily for swelling or discharge. Do everything you can to get your rabbit to eat again as soon as possible after returning home. To coax him to eat again, you may have to offer a variety of treats, including his regular pellets and hay. If your rabbit has not eaten for 48 hours after surgery, consult your veterinarian. 16.8 Bacterial Infections. The first indication of an infection may be a runny nose or eye, sometimes a high temperature, sometimes a rattling sound from the lungs or (rarely) a coughing sound. It is important to see your veterinarian as soon as the first symptoms of any infection appear, as they are more easily cured when caught in the early stages. The bacteria you may hear the most about is called Pasteurella. This used to be a major problem, but with the newer antibiotics, this bacteria can often be eliminated. And, if not totally eliminated, it can be controlled with the use of long term antibiotics. Most of the symptoms described are quite common for many types of bacteria, so it is important to have your veterinarian do a culture to determine exactly what is being treated. 16.9 Digestive Problems. The following symptoms require that you see your veterinarian immediately. Diarrhea--as in human children, diarrhea in rabbits can be fatal. Rabbits have various kinds of diarrhea, if it's runny, messy and smelly it's easy to identify. A more subtle form of diarrhea (which does not require the urgency of runny diarrhea) is when the droppings appear to be normal, but "squash" when you touch or sweep them up. You may also see "clumpy" diarrhea. This will be the consistency of silly putty, with normal round droppings mixed in. Diarrhea usually requires antibiotics from your veterinarian. Other signs to watch for are loud tummy growling, small and/or misshapen droppings or no droppings at all. See your veterinarian if any of these symptoms appear. (Veterinarians often misdiagnose this problem as being a hairball.) 18.0 Travel and Vacatios VACATIONS & TRAVEL PLANNING FOR "THUMPER" When traveling is in your plans, whether it be a vacation or a move, plans will need to be made for your rabbit. Rabbits have different personalities and each will react in varying degrees to stress, but you should keep in mind that most rabbits are stressed by changes-unfamiliar surroundings, changes in routine, changes in type of food/water, and changes in temperature. Rabbits show stress by getting diarrhea, becoming withdrawn or aggressive, or by refusing to eat. By planning carefully, you can minimize these stresses for your rabbit. LEAVING YOUR RABBIT BEHIND If you are planning a weekend trip or an extended vacation, you have several options. 1. LEAVE RABBIT AT HOME Find a reliable friend who knows your rabbit or a pet sitter who knows rabbits to come once or twice a day. Have the person meet with you and your rabbit to go over care and expectations. Leave a list of instructions covering feeding and cleaning routines, signs of illness, and phone numbers of your veterinarian and other people who can give advice on rabbits (in case a question arises when your veterinarian is unavailable). Daily portions of vegetables and fruits can be fixed ahead and stored in ziploc bags in refrigerator drawers for up to a week (parsley, carrot chunk, broccoli, & celery store well but your rabbit should be accustomed to these before your trip). How to fnd a pet sitter: a Call HRRN (512-282-9518) for references. b. Veterinarian technicians at experienced rabbit veterinarians may do pet sitting. c. Look on bulletin boards at vets, pet supply stores, & humane societies, then check references. PRO'S - Your rabbit will be in familiar surroundings. - Feeding routine will be closer to usual routine. - Quiet - If you use a veterinary technician or someone who is familiar with rabbits, you can be more confident that symptoms of illness will be noticed. - Although pet sitters generally charge more than boarding fees, it can be more cost effective if you also have other pets. - Your rabbit is not exposed to unfamiliar animals as in a boarding situation. CON'S - Your rabbit may get lonely, especially if she is the only animal in the house. - Your rabbit may not get out of her cage, if caged. - Having a sitter or neighbor who comes only once a day, leaves a lot of time for symptoms of illness to go unnoticed and also makes it harder to maintain some rabbits' routines. - if you have other pets such as dogs or cats, provisions may need to be made to make sure they do not bother the rabbit. 2. BOARD YOUR RABBIT IN SOMEONE'S HOME You may have a friend who will take your rabbit or you may call HRRN for names of some volunteers who board rabbits. PRO'S - If the person you choose is familiar with rabbits, symptoms of illness may be more quickly recognized. - Your rabbit may get more attention than from a visiting sitter. - A caged rabbit may get more exercise time than if left at home. CON'S - Your rabbit will be in unfamiliar surroundings. - Other rabbits and pets may stress your rabbit. - You will need to move your rabbit's cage and supplies. 3. BOARD AT A veterinarian OR KENNEL This is probably the least desirable option when leaving your rabbit behind. But if you choose this, there are several things you should consider: - Ask to see where your rabbit will stay. Ideally, the rabbit should be in a room away from dogs and cats. If the rabbit will be in the "cat room", her cage should not face the cats. - Ask if you can bring your rabbit's cage from home. This may minimize the change. - The veterinarian or kennel should be familiar with rabbits. PRO'S An experienced rabbit veterinarian can treat your rabbit should he fall ill or have a chronic health problem. CON'S - Can be difficult to find a vet/kennel which has desirable space separate from dogs and cats. - Kennel staff are not always familiar with rabbits, especially house rabbits. - Unfamiliar surroundings and noise from upset animals may be stressful to your rabbit. - Your rabbit most likely will not get out of his cage. - Kennel staff probably won't give much personal attention other than feeding and cleaning. - Can be expensive, especially if boarding other pets also. TAKING YOUR RABBIT WITH YOU If you are going on an extended vacation with lots of sightseeing, you would probably do well to leave your rabbit at home. If you are going on a longer vacation of a month or more where you will be based at friends' or relatives' homes, you may be able to take your rabbit. However, you should make sure that your plans agree with your hosts and that there are no allergies to rabbits. Of course, if you are moving, you will need to plan on moving your rabbit also. People have moved rabbits over long distances; It just takes planning ahead. - If your rabbit is not used to car rides (except to the vet), start regular car rides as early as possible before your actual trip. Start with short (30 min.) weekly or twice weekly rides in a pet carrier. Try to have some longer rides (1 hr.-3hr.) before the trip. Remember! Don't leave your rabbit in a warm car at the store. - If you are moving long-distance and are also moving several animals, you might consider renting a panel van with no partition between the driver and cargo (allows AC/Heat to circulate). Place cages on top of carpet remnants or pads to minimize vibration and secure cages to wall of van. Carriers a Pet Taxis/Kennel Cabs-Sturdy. Rabbits like the solid roof. End-opening doors sometimes make it difficult to get some rabbits out; some have doors on the top but these are usually not tall enough to allow many rabbits to sit up. Solid bottoms may make it difficult to maintain a clean area for your rabbit unless you get a large carrier that will accommodates a small litter pan. It is also difficult to attach water bottles and food bowls to doors. b. Rabbit carriers-Sold through rabbit supply catalogs (KW Cages 1-800 447~CAGE; Morton-Jones 1-800 443-5769). These are made of cage wire, sit in a metal tray which holds litter, and have top-opening doors. Small travel water bottles are made for these carriers. c. Cage-A small rabbit cage or your rabbit's regular cage is perhaps the best choice if you will be on the road for more than a day. -Health Certificate-May need one for your rabbit if you are traveling between countries or by plane. If traveling between countries, find out ahead of time about procedures at Customs. Quarantines could be a problem. Supplies to take along: water bottle/bowls food hay water newspapers whiskbroom/dustpan garbage bags vinegar(for cleaning) paper towels Laxatone or Petromalt (for hairballs/swallowing of carpet, etc.) Acidophilus (from health food store to combat stomach upset) Enzyme powder (Prozyme-from rabbit supply catalogs or vet; also keeps stomach flora functioning) Pedialyte (infant rehydrating solution; comes in different flavors, important because rabbits often become dehydrated while traveling) Ice packs & towels to soak in cool water for heat stress Medical supplies-eye droppers or syringes for feeding, any medications -Prepare for Emergencies 1. "Tatoo" a telephone number of a reliable friend or relative in rabbit's ears with a nontoxic felt marker. The ink wears off but provides temporary ID. 2. Type short notes for your purse, suitcase, and car giving emergency instructions in case of accident i.e.: phone number of person to call who knows what to do with rabbit and other instructions for rabbit. 3. Take House Rabbit Handbook and other rabbit health information with you. Contact HRRN for handouts on medical concerns which may also be helpful to veterinarians on your trip. 4. If you need a vet, look for one with experience with "exotics" and ask about experience with rabbits, numbers seen, antibiotics (no amoxicillin/ampicillin), anesthetic (isoflurane is best), and fasting for surgery (no fasting for rabbits). Avoid emergency clinics if possible because they are often unfamiliar with rabbits and more expensive. -Staying in Hotels/Motels 1. Look for ones which accept pets. Resources. 2. Ask for a room on the ground floor of motels in the back if you are not sure of pet policy. 3. Keep the rabbit in her cage except for exercise in the bathroom. 4. Hang the "Do Not Disturb" sign on the door at all times. 5. It may be risky leaving the rabbit in the motel while sightseeing due to staff reaction and stress of being alone in an unfamiliar place. -Staying In Other Peoples' Homes 1. Explain your rabbit's living conditions before you visit. Will they mind an indoor rabbit? Will there be space for exercising? 2. Ask if they have allergies to animals? People who are allergic to cats may or may not be allergic to rabbits. 3. Be diligent about cleaning up after your rabbit. THINGS TO KNOW ABOUT CAR TRAVEL 1. Rabbits cannot tolerate heat. a Provide wet towels over cage with breeze and frozen water cartons to lie against if you have no air conditioning in hot weather. b. Don't leave rabbit in parked car in the hottest part of the day while you are in a restaurant. You may have to get food-to-go, take food along and stop in shaded rest areas, or wait until early morning and late evening to stop to eat. 2. Rabbits do not like drafts. Carriers should not be placed where AC/Heat blows directly on them. 3. Water bottles will often leak out all their water. Rabbits tend to not drink while traveling. Water should be offered at all stops. Add Pedilyte to combat dehydration but be sure the rabbit will drink it. You may have to syringe/dropper feed water. 4. Rabbits may also not eat while traveling. Offer favorite vegetables, pellets, and hay at all stops. Put some hay and pellets in carrier while traveling. 5. Try to establish some routine as to length of time in car each day, stopping times, feeding and exercise times 6. Strap down carriers so they do not slide during sudden stops THINGS TO KNOW ABOUT AIR TRAVEL "Imagine being a small animal inside a roaring, quivering airplane for several hours. Your ears may pop, probably for the first tirne in your life. The air on the floor where your box sits is hot and stuffy, or maybe quite cold. When finally let out, you're in a totally unfamiliar place. Ask yourself, is this an experience your rabbit really needs? (B. Woolbright, HRJ, Vol.2, #12). Yes, if it is the only way to get your rabbit to a new home with your family. Perhaps, if you are going on a trip longer than a month. Probably not if you will be gone less than a month. [Update 12-2-96: info on which airlines currently accept rabbits in the cabin, and what you can do to lobby airlines to change their policies is available at http://fig.cox.miami.edu/Faculty/Dana/activist.html Consider -Rabbits who are nervous, fear the vacuum cleaner, tremble in the car, or who are older or have health problems will most likely find a plane trip too stressful. -Rabbits who are calm and not bothered by car rides and new places will cope better but may still find planes weird and scary. -A one-to-two hour plane trip may be better than a 10-hour car ride. However, four days in a car may be less stressful than an all-day trip of changing planes and traveling to and from airports. If you choose to fly with your rabbit, you will need to: 1. Make a reservation well in advance. It will cost approximately $50 regardless of whether your rabbit is in cargo or under your seat. 2. Shop around for an airline which will allow you to take your rabbit, preferably in the cabin. Some allow pets in the cabin, but not rabbits. Most allow only one animal in the cabin per flight. 3. Find out from the airline what type carrier you need. Under-the-seat carriers cannot be any larger than 8" x 17" x 12~ which is too small for some large rabbits. The type with a top-opening door allows you better access to your rabbit. Line the carrier with paper towels or newspapers and hay. Do not take your rabbit out of the carrier in-flight. 4. Take food pellets, hay, and water in your carry-on bag to offer at all layovers. Also take medical supplies and other supplies listed on page 3. 5. Prepare for emergencies (see page 3). 6. Check with the airline on their requirements for a health certificate. You may have to visit an unfamiliar veterinarian before returning home. 7. Accustom your rabbit to travel by taking him in his carrier on car rides at least one month prior to the plane trip. Work up to rides of an hour or more, if possible. Cargo Realities -Carriers are loaded from baggage carts while engines are idling. People wear earmuffs; rabbits don't. Cargo is pressurized and has limited temperature control, but these are not activated on the ground. -Animals cannot be boarded if ground temperature on the tarmac at departure or destination is too hot or cold, so the possibility exists that your rabbit might not get on the same flight as you. Adjusting your travel time to earlier or later in the day according to the temperatures may help. -Try to get your rabbit hand-delivered to you and to the plane rather than letting him be put on a conveyor belt or baggage cart. A generous tip to a sky-cap may get your rabbit hand-delivered. For a list of regulations for transporting animals by air which will give you some insight into travel conditions, write Animal Care-APHIS, US. Dept. of Agriculture, Hyattsville, MD 20782. 19.0 Rabbits and Children RABBITS AND CHILDREN FAQ by Carolyn Mixon Children & rabbits are natural companions-right? The answer could be "yes", no, or "maybe so" depending on many factors. Are you thinking of getting a rabbit for your child? Are you trying to figure out how to live with both a rabbit and a child since having a baby? Does your family already have a rabbit? Are you finding that the children and rabbit do not interact as you had expected? Did your family agree that the rabbit would be the "children's responsibility" and now that is not happening? Then, please read on! WHAT A RABBIT IS REALLY LIKE Many people are surprised and disappointed to find that rabbits rarely conform to the cute-n-cuddly stereotype in children's stories Baby bunnies (and many young adult rabbits) are too busy dashing madly about, squeezing behind furniture, and chewing baseboards and rugs to be held. Also, rabbits are physically delicate animals which means they can be hurt by children picking them up. Because rabbits feel frightened when people pick them up, they kick and struggle which means children can also get hurt Rabbits are also built to react to sudden changes which means they may either run away or try to bite when approached too quickly and too loudly. Stress-related illnesses are common. For these reasons, many children, especially young children, will find it difficult to interact with a rabbit and soon lose interest. So why do they make good house pets? Rabbits: are quiet can learn near-perfect litterbox habits are fun to watch have different personalities just as individual dogs and cats do don't need a yard if given plenty of indoor, sun-lit exercise space. In addition, rabbits are social animals meaning they need the companionship of humans or other animals, although the need may vary among individual rabbits. They play, some more than others. Many can get along with most cats and some dogs when properly introduced. Many enjoy being with people but your family must have patience, understanding, and an acceptance of individual differences to earn their trust. In order for a family and a rabbit to get to know each other (and for the rabbit's best health), the rabbit needs to be an indoor pet with as much out-of-cage time with the family as possible. If you relegate your rabbit to an outdoor hutch (or even to an indoor cage for most of the day), your family will miss getting to know the special personality of the rabbit. As the adult, you need to get used to this idea: THE RABBIT WILL BE YOUR PET If your family already has a rabbit whom "n were supposed to care for" and there are problems with this, then try to reconcile yourself to the fact that a rabbit is an adult's responsibility. Rabbits are very sensitive to changes to their feeding, cleaning, and exercise routines. Changes are stressful and may lead to illness. Symptoms of illness are often subtle changes in appetite, behavior, and/or droppings that even mature children will miss. It is unreasonable to expect a child of any age to take responsibility for care of a rabbit (or any pet). The rabbit and your children, as well as the family peace, will benefit greatly from you accepting this notion. If your family is considering adopting a rabbit, decide how you and the other adults in the household feel about taking on the responsibility of a rabbit. Do the adults want a rabbit as a member of the family? If the rabbit is an all-around family member (lives indoors, gets regular out-of-cage time) and play with the rabbit is supervised, then a child and rabbit can get to know each other and live together happily. Do the adults have an understanding of the basic nature of rabbits and what to expect in terms of time, training, and cost? Or, are you open to finding out? Are the adults willing to make a 5 to 10 yr. commitment? Unless the adults of the household are enthusiastic, informed, and committed about the work involved, a stuffed animal rabbit is a better choice. OTHER FACTORS TO CONSIDER Amount of Time & Patience You Have to Devote. You don't have to be "Super-Adult" to have peaceful coexistence between rabbit and children. But, do you want another "toddler"? Rabbits are a lot like 2 yr. old children-they can be a joy to live with, but You will need to spend time in toilet-training i.e.: litterbox training and have tolerance for accidents. Most rabbit people take occasional scattered droppings in stride. There may be an occasional puddle, usually done to mark new territory. You will need to bunny-proof the parts of your house where the rabbit is allowed to run somewhat similar to toddler-proofing. You will need to check on your rabbit often and supervise child/rabbit interactions when the rabbit is out for exercise. Three to four hours per day of out-of-cage time is the minimum. Some of your things may be partially ruined. The amount of chewing and digging that your rabbit does will depend on age, personality, whether spayed/neutered, as well as on what toys you provide him. Your rabbit will need toys but these can be homemade. Just like human toddlers, rabbits respond to routines for feeding, playing, and cleaning up. The main thing is to find a routine that is easy for you. If the routine is too difficult, you will begin to look at the rabbit as one more mess-maker. A rabbit, like a child, responds best to situations that are set up so he will do the right things and receive praise for doing right instead of punishment for doing wrong. Your Child's Personality If your child is generally easy-going, calm, gentle, and cooperative, you may enjoy having a rabbit as a member of the family. If your child is generally on the loud side, very active, tends to interact physically/aggressively, or frequently seems to need reminders about or challenges rules, s/he may find it difficult to build a relationship with a rabbit and you may find that a rabbit is an additional stress. Number of Children & Ages Contrary to Easter-time hype, rabbits are rarely a good choice for a small child (younger than 7 yrs.). The natural exuberance, rambunctiousness, and decibel-level of the average toddler is stressful for most rabbits. Children want a companion they can hold and cuddle; Rabbits need someone who understands that they are ground-loving creatures. The guidelines below are based on what children of varying ages are genuinely like while keeping in mind the type of household most rabbits do well in. Of course, rabbits and children do vary and there may be exceptions to these guidelines. The most important factor is most likely the adults' attitude and knowledge level (see previous section "The Rabbit Will Be Your Pet"). One Child Younger than 7 Years-Probably shouldn't get a rabbit unless your child fits the calm" description and you are an informed adult who wants to deal with another toddler. It can be done though, if you have the time and patience. One or More Younger than 7 Years-Probably shouldn't get a rabbit. You are likely very busy with active children who need a lot of your attention which will probably leave you little time for managing a rabbit. One Younger than & One Older than 7 Years-Perhaps. Your time, the children's personalities, and the general noise/activity level of your household should be considered. If your younger child is "on the move & into everything, it may be difficult for you & rabbit to live happily even if the older child is of the "calm" type. 1 or More Older than 7 Years-Perhaps. Again, your time, the children's personalities, and the general noise/activity level of your household should be considered. Lots of friends coming & going will probably stress out a rabbit. Your children may also be involved in quite a few activities (music lessons, sports, etc.) which may leave little time for the rabbit & family to get to know each other. One Younger and 1 or More Older than 7 Years-Probably shouldn't get a rabbit. Consider the information in 3. & 4. above, but your household is most likely too busy and noisy to build a friendship with a rabbit. Caring for and training a rabbit may be "just one more thing" that the adults have to do. Two or More Younger than & One or More Older than 7 Years-Probably shouldn't get a rabbit. Consider the information in 2.-5. above. One Child Older 'than 7 Years-If you are enthusiastic about accepting responsibility for a rabbit and if your child is the calm type or at least generally accepting of rules for behavior, you and a rabbit would probably find it a joy to live together. If your child if of the loud/active/ challenging rules variety, a rabbit may just increase your stress level. Money As with any pet, rabbits require a commitment in terms of housing, feeding, and medical care for their natural lives. The biggest initial expenses will be a cage ($35 and up) and a spay ($35-80) or neuter ($25-50) operation if this was not done prior to adoption or purchase. Rabbits do not need annual shots but you will usually need to make several visits to a veterinarian when she is sick. You will need to keep supplies of litter, food pellets, fresh vegetables, and hay on hand. Space Rabbits should be kept indoors for health, safety, and socialization. You will need space for at least a 30" x 30" or 24" x 36" cage. The cage should be away from TV's, stereos and high noise areas, but not completely isolated from people. Consider which area is most easily bunnyproofed for your rabbit's out-of-cage time. Allergies If any of your family has allergies, you should have testing done to see if there is an allergy to rabbits before you get a rabbit. NEW BABY IN THE HOUSE? If a baby is coming, or has come, to your rabbit's house, your rabbit will probably be getting less of your attention for awhile, but neither of you needs to suffer. You may not have time for lots of petting and playing, but focus on maintaining the rabbit's daily care routine. It can be relaxing to have some petting time with your rabbit when baby sleeps. Rabbit will adjust! Your rabbit will be infinitely happier with you than if he is given away to adjust to a new home. Shelters and rescue groups overflowing with dogs, cats, and yes-rabbits are constant reminders of how difficult it is to find people willing to give an animal a good home for life. Many are initially enthusiastic about getting a new pet, but when the newness wears off and the reality of care sets in, many animals find themselves disposed of for the owners convenience. Remember!-When baby gets older, rabbit will have added attention from your child (and you) which can be a good thing if you are committed to teaching your child about the rabbit. TEACHING CHILDREN TO BE RABBIT PEOPLE Whether you have brought a baby home to your rabbit's house or have brought a rabbit home to your child's house, it is well to remember to: Learn about rabbit behavior/language so you can point out the rabbits feelings about your child's actions. Choose a time of day when your child is on "low ebb" for teaching your child about the rabbit and for play with the rabbit. Set your child and the rabbit up for success. Try to anticipate and prevent inappropriate interaction by often showing your child how to interact. Try not to get into a pattern of always saying "Don't..." and "Stop..." to your child about the rabbit. If your child does something inappropriate, show and talk about what the child can do with the rabbit. Offer choices for behavior and ask "What could you do...?". Otherwise, your child may see the rabbit as something he is always getting in trouble for. Keep the child away from the rabbit for a short time if the child refuses to stop a behavior that may hurt the rabbit. Set up the cage so rabbit can get away from the children-"a safe zone". Use child gates in doorways and or turn the cage so the door faces the wall with enough room for rabbit but not the child. Put the rabbit in a closed-off room when there are lots of playmates or parties. It is often better if the guests "don't know the rabbit exists". --Refrain from having children's friends in to "see the new rabbit" for the first week or so. Show children's friends where rabbit lives and how to pet at times when only 1 or 2 friends visit, then make sure the rabbit is safe during the visit. WHAT YOU CAN DO WITH DIFFERENT AGES Sitting/Crawling Infants (6-12 months)-Start teaching the idea that the rabbit is to be respected and treated carefully. BUNNYRULE # l gentile petting: Sit on the floor with child in your lap while you pet and talk to the rabbit. Guide her hand over the rabbit's head, ears, and upper back. To prevent fur-grabbing, hold her hand flat or use the back of her hand. Do this frequently but no longer than 5 mins. at a time. BUNNYRULE #2-Leave the rabbit alone when he hops away or goes in his cage: Interpret rabbit's body language for the child ("Oops, he didn't want anymore petting. He wants to eat or take a nap.) Prevent the tendencies to chase a rabbit who has had enough and to bang/poke on the cage by explaining: "Chasing him will make him scared of you." or "Banging on his house scares him." Watch your child carefully and make such explanations at the moment before it looks like the child may engage in such behaviors. Explaining, then redirecting the child's attention works best for this age when inappropriate behavior seems imminent or occurs. BUNNYRULE #3-Don't touch droppings & litter Teach the child that the litterbox and droppings that may be found on floor are "dirt'. You may have no problem with picking up the dry droppings with your hand, but you don't stick your fingers in your mouth! You may have to change your habits for awhile to teach this concept. A box with a cage floor wire grate works well. Toddlers (1-2 yrs.)-Continue reinforcing or teach BUNNYRULES 1-3 and add #4. Although unintentional, toddlers are capable of doing real harm to a rabbit. They will need constant supervision and frequent gentle reminders of appropriate behavior. See below for additional notes on rules. BUNNYRULE #I-Due to still-developing muscle coordination, toddlers have a hard time keeping fingers out of rabbits' eyes so you may have to insist on two-finger petting or back-of-hand petting. BUNNYRULE #2-Closely supervise children's interactions with the rabbit. This is the stage of the stick when some are prone to bash things with sticks. Children this age also have a hard time not chasing a rabbit who hops away. If she chases the rabbit, the rabbit will learn to be scared of her. Teach respect for the rabbit ending the petting or playing session ('Well, that's all he wanted to do.") and interest the child in another activity. BUNNYRULE #3 Children who are interested in toilet-training can understand "that is where the bunny poops and pees". BUNNYRULE #4-We pet, but don't pick up the rabbit: Explain that it scares the rabbit to be picked up and both of you could get hurt Explain that Mom or Dad may pick up the rabbit if she needs care. Explain rabbit language & actions: "Hear her teeth clicking? She likes the petting. See her toss the ball? She's playing." If child gets scratched, explain what the child did to scare or hurt the rabbit and show a better way to act. Redirect loud play to another area ("Look at bunny. She doesn't like the noise.") Toddlers love to share their snacks with the rabbit so make sure rabbit gets only small amounts proper foods and is not overloaded with cereals and crackers. They also love to help with feeding - scooping & pouring food, taking vegetables and hay to rabbit. One to Seven-Year Olds-If a 2-yr old has grown up with a rabbit, she can have quite a bit of empathy for and knowledge about a rabbit. Continue or teach BUNNYRULES #14. Teach by example instead of by a lot of "No's"; Your child will learn most by watching you. If interested, the child may help with feeding and play with the rabbit with your supervision. Older children-Continue or teach BUNNYRULES #14. Teach by example and setting up situations for success. Your child may build a friendship with the rabbit by sitting on the floor with the rabbit while doing homework, art work, reading, or watching t.v. The rabbit will eventually come to investigate and to be petted. Older children have lots of other interests and interest in rabbit may come and go. The rabbit's care should continue to be your responsibility, but your child may help with feeding and grooming. CHOOSING A RABBIT Rabbits have different personalities so it is difficult to make generalizations about breeds. In general though, a medium to large breed adult rabbit is usually better for a child. They will command the most respect from a child and are easier to pet because they have larger heads. Dwarf breeds tend to be more excitable, energetic, and aggressive. Baby rabbits are very active, often nippy, and chew everything in sight. Adult rabbits are more easily litter-and house-trained, especially after spaying or neutering. You will also have a better idea of a rabbits personality if you choose an adult who is spayed or neutered. Adopt a rabbit from a rescue group like HRRN, HRS, or local shelters. There are many advantages and you will be helping to combat rabbit overpopulation. Animal shelters euthanize hundreds of unwanted rabbits each year, many less than a year old. Many more die agonizing deaths from neglect and abandonment without ever reaching a shelter. You will be giving one of the many unwanted rabbits a second chance for a loving home while discouraging those who breed rabbits for profit. TEACHING RESPONSIBILITY-SOMETHING TO THINK ABOUT Many parents say they want to get a rabbit for their child to teach the child some responsibility. What usually happens is that the child loses interest (not to mention being incapable of sticking to a routine and providing proper care), and the rabbit suffers. The child, at best, learns to feel bad that she has failed and caused suffering. At worst, she learns to resent the animal for the nagging that she is hearing from the adult. Often, the rabbit is given away because "you didn't take care of it". The child learns that life is disposable and that if she waits long enough, someone else will relieve her of her "responsibility'. So, let your child help with the rabbit, but don't insist. If the child appears interested, encourage her; if she becomes bored, let her move on to the next thing, and you carry on with the rabbit. She learns most of all from watching you-your actions, your tone of voice when you speak to the rabbit, and your attitude. From this she learns the nurturing (responsible) point of view- the patient waiting, the faithful caring, the joyful appreciation and acceptance of a living creature for who it is, not who you wish it to be. "It is not easy to manage young humans and animals, but when parents find solutions, rather than dispose of an animal for convenience sake, an important concept is communicated to the child. This is alive. This is valuable. You don't throw it away." ("Importance of Permanence"-M. Harriman, HRJ). This is teaching responsibility. This information is based on material from the national House Rabbit Society (HRS) and on the o experiences of the author. In addition to working with over 1200 elementary school-aged children during a 12-yr. teaching career, the author has lived with house rabbits since 1988 and in 1992 brought baby Emily home to then-2 yr. old Gracie Rabbit. Three-year-old Emily now lives with Gracie & Jessie Rabbit (& Benny Cat). She has become a responsible child who has empathy for and knowledge about her animals far beyond her years.